Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Cordoba, Spain

We woke up early Friday morning and drove to Cordoba. Cordoba was once one of the greatest cities in the Western world in the 10th century when Abd Rahman III created an independent caliphate with Cordoba as its capital. Cordoba was the center of trade, industry and learning and its influence stretched from North Africa to the Balearic Islands.

We enjoyed driving along the coast into the mountains to Cordoba. In Cordoba, we parked across the Quadalquivir river near a playground. Kate and Elisabeth enjoyed playing on the playground after the long drive. We walked across the river, past the fortifications and the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos to the old Jewish quarter near the Mezquita. We ate lunch at a lovely restaurant on a square in the Jewish Quarter, the Juderia. It was a warm day so we ate outside in the shade. Kate and Elisabeth enjoyed the Easter processions during lunch along the narrow streets. The also enjoyed being serenaded by a traditional Spanish accordion player and guitar player.

After lunch we walked back to the Mezquita, built between 785 and 787 AD by Abd al Rahman I. The girls were impressed by the Great Mosque and the Patio de los Naranjos, the hidden forest of orange trees in the courtyard where the faithful washed before prayer. They were excited to climb the 93 meter high bell tower, the Torre del Alminar, built on the site of the original minaret; unfortunately, it had been closed for 18 years.

Inside the Mezquita, the girls were impressed with the arches and vastness of the building, a mix of Muslim and Christian architecture. More than 850 columns of granite, jasper, and marble support the roof, creating a dazzling visual effect. Part of the mosque was destroyed to accommodate the cathedral, started in 1523.

After touring the mosque and cathedral we enjoyed a horse and carriage ride through the Juderia. Cordoba holds a patio contest every year. During our carriage ride, we enjoyed glimpses of the lovely patios, which is at the heart of the classic Mediterranean house. The patios of Cordoba were quite lovely with brick arches, ironwork, pots full of vibrant flowers, colorful tiles, orange and lemon trees, and fountains.

Afterwards we enjoyed an helado near the Mezquita. An artist sketched a caricature of the Elisabeth and Kate - we're excited to frame and hang it upon our return.

We enjoyed walking to the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos along the Quadalquivir river. Unfortunately, the castle and gardens were closed. Rich took turns carrying the girls on his shoulders to give them a view of the gardens at the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos. Elisabeth and Kate were truly amazed by the terraces and fountains. We continued our walk past the fortifications along and across the Quadalquivir river. We enjoyed a lemonade at a local cafe and played at the playground before driving back to Almunecar and dinner on the beach.