Tuesday, July 6, 2010

3:00am Wake-up Call

This morning the girls awoke at 3:00am. They dressed themselves and brushed their teeth and were ready to go by 3:30am. Rich and I had a hard time convincing them that it wasn't time for breakfast! Somehow we persuaded them to stay in their beds until 6:00am.

Let's hope that they sleep later tomorrow morning...

Monday, July 5, 2010

July in Paris

On June 30th I took the Thalys from Brussels to Paris with Elisabeth and Kate. We arrived safely and took a cab to our apartment in Paris on Rue de Malar on the left bank near the Eiffel Tower. We met Pascal at the apartment, he gave us a tour of the apartment and the keys and we unloaded our luggage. Kate, Elisabeth and I enjoyed buying groceries at one of the local markets. We bought fresh bread from the local boulangerie. We ate dinner at our favorite "football" restaurant on La Tour de Maubourg. We caught up on the World Cup and Wimbledon. We strolled through the Rue Cler neighborhood and then went home to the apartment. A long day.

Thursday: Eiffel Tower & Rodin Museum/Sculpture Garden
The next morning we awoke early. Elisabeth set the table and prepared breakfast. She is so helpful. We walked to the Eiffel Tower and rode the elevator to the top. We stopped at the Eiffel Tower cafe for a mid-morning snack. After the descent, we rode the merry-go-round on the right bank across from the Eiffel Tower (the merry-go-round on the left bank was closed). We ate lunch at an outdoor cafe along the Seine River on the left bank and then walked back to the apartment to rest and meet Rich around 3pm.

After an afternoon snack on jam and fresh bread at the apartment, Rich and I walked with the girls to the Rodin Museum. We strolled through the sculpture garden and enjoyed a cold drink and ice cream at the cafe in the garden. Elisabeth and Kate each had a map and found the sculptures.

We walked from the Rodin Museum past Invalides to La Tour Maubourg. We ate dinner at a one of our favorite bistros (it was in the same building as our first apartment in February 2010). We had eaten there often so the staff recognized the girls. We ate outside and enjoyed watching people. The girls saw two long haired golden retrievers....they want a dog.

After putting the girls to bed at 7pm (they were exhausted), Rich worked on his computer while I walked from the Eiffel Tower to Notre Dame and back to the Eiffel Tower. It was a lovely evening to walk. I think I returned at 10pm and it was still light.

Friday: Luxembourg Gardens & The Orangerie

On Friday Elisabeth planned for us to go to the Luxembourg Gardens. We went to the nearest cab stand on La Tour Maubourg and took a cab. The girls played at the playground and sailed boats in the pond. We ate lunch at one of the little cafes in Luxembourg Gardens.

After lunch we went to the Orangerie to see Monet's famous paintings. What an impressive art gallery. Elisabeth and Kate listened to the children's audio guide. They enjoyed it tremendously, especially sitting in the middle of the large gallery and looking at the paintings (perhaps they had just exhausted themselves at the playground that morning!). Afterwards, we watched a short video regarding impressionists and strolled through the galleries. Kate bought a coloring book at the gift shop. We walked back to the Eiffel Tower along the Seine and enjoyed a Spa Citron at a local brasserie before dinner in Rue Cler. Lots of football on the television! The girls enjoyed watching the World Cup.

Saturday: The Seine, the Louvre and the Jardin de Tuileries

On Saturday we walked from our apartment at Rue de Malar to the Eiffel Tower. We hopped on the Batobus boat and rode along the water. We had the boat all to ourselves (as it was a rainy morning). We got off at the Louvre and ate lunch at one of the restaurants in the Louvre.

Upon exiting the Louvre, the girls noticed a Ferris Wheel in the distance. We walked to the Jardin de Tuileries to discover a fair. We rode the Ferris Wheel, the girls drove pastel race cars and jumped on the trampolines with harnesses. Lots of front flips and back flips from Elisabeth and Kate! After the fair we walked back to the Batobus dock near the Louvre. We enjoyed our final boat ride along the Seine for July 2010. We ate dinner at the bistro on La Tour Maubourg. We sat outside and watched Parisians stroll through the neighborhood.

After putting the girls to bed at 7pm, Rich worked on his computer while I set off again to walk. Rather than walk on the left bank, I crossed the Seine River and walked along the right bank to Notre Dame. It was a much longer walk, but I enjoyed walking along the Champs Elysees, the Arc de Triomphe, the Place de la Concorde, Les Tuileries, the Louvre, etc. I stopped at the Shakespeare and Company book shop on the Left Bank and bought Judy Blume's Freckle Juice and a few others for the flight home. What an incredible city!

Sunday: Rue Cler, the Eiffel Tower & a Final Farewell to Paris

On Sunday morning Rich took the girls to Rue Cler for a pastry while I finished packing our luggage. We left the apartment at 10am and walked to the Eiffel Tower. It was a beautiful day with blue skies. Elisabeth and Kate rode the merry-go-rounds one last time, we enjoyed a Sprite at a cafe on the Left Bank of the Seine and walked back to our apartment. A cab met us at the apartment and took us to the train station. Our train didn't depart until 2pm so we had time for lunch at a local brasserie.

Farewell to Brussels

After a lovely week in Paris, we took the Thalys from Paris to Brussels on Sunday afternoon. We arrived by train at Gare de Midi in Brussels on Sunday, July 4th. A cab picked us up at the train station and took us to the Hotel Amigo, a hotel near the Grand Plaza in Brussels.


Elisabeth and Kate were excited for their last evening in Brussels. Elisabeth planned our afternoon. We walked from the Grand Plaza to St. Catherine's Square (one of her favorite squares in Brussels). During our stroll we enjoyed Belgian chocolates from Elisabeth, her favorite chocolatier in Brussels. What a treat! We loved Paris, but we missed our Belgian chocolates!


We ate dinner at our favorite Greek restaurant just off of the Grand Plaza in Brussels. A lovely meal. We reminisced about our travels in Belgium, Greece, Spain, Italy, France, Germany, and the Netherlands. Which was our favorite? The consensus was Spain! Starting to think about Spring Break in Barcelona next year...


After dinner, as a special treat, we took the girls to a boutique across the street from the Hotel Amigo. I had taken the girls to the boutique many times to buy wedding presents, christening gifts and Christmas presents. Elisabeth and Kate were very patient and admired the dresses there. The girls enjoyed picking out a special dress.


After putting the girls to bed at the Hotel Amigo, I enjoyed a nice walk from the Hotel Amigo through the Grand Plaza to the Cinquantenaire Park. The hotel gave me a map of a short route and a long route. Of course, I took the long route. Quite strenuous, but fun to see the city one last time. Lovely fountains, parks, and cobblestone streets.


The next morning we woke up early. We ate breakfast at Exki, a healthy breakfast spot just off of the Grand Plaza (we contemplated the walk up to the Petit Sablon to eat at Pan Quotidien; however, the uphill hike was too strenuous for us so early in the morning!). After breakfast we strolled around the historic Grand Plaza and returned to our hotel. Surprisingly, the Radio Shack team from the La Tour de France was just checking out (aka Lance Armstrong, etc.). What fun for the girls to meet some of the Radio Shack team!


Upon arrival at the airport, the girls were in good spirits (despite being carsick in the parking lot at the Brussels airport). It could have been a long flight, but the girls rallied and we enjoyed a terrific flight. Several people commented on the plane that the girls were well behaved and well mannered. The flight attendants gave them extra "United Wings" as a reward. Elisabeth was also allowed in the cockpit after the plane landed and the pilot gave her a tour (she wants to be a pilot when she grows up!).


We were concerned about immigration, baggage claim and customs, but we breezed through. We arrived home at Rich's parents in Falls Church at 3:30pm, dropped off our luggage and drove to the pool. Such a hot day in Virginia. Nice to let the girls swim (there are few outdoor pools in Belgium - too cold!). Also nice to see a few familiar faces. We stopped at Panera to eat dinner, drove through the neighborhood and put the girls to bed. They were asleep by 7pm (1:00am in Brussels). A very long day. Let's hope for a good night sleep....

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Packing up!

The movers come tomorrow morning, Monday, the 28th of June. Lots of packing this weekend! We are packing for a week in Paris, packing for the long hot summer in Virginia, and packing up for our shipment for delivery late in the summer. Let's hope we don't get the suitcases and boxes confused!

Elisabeth and Kate were a big help this morning. They spent the morning packing their suitcases for Paris and Virginia. I think their favorite part of the morning was hiding in the suitcases! As a reward for their efforts, Rich took them to the Farmer's Market in Boisfort.

Packing, packing, and more packing!

Saturday, June 26, 2010

A Walk in the Woods

Elisabeth, Kate and I drove to the Brussels airport this morning to pick up Rich. He returned to Brussels after two weeks working in the DC office. After a quiet morning of ZINGO! and the Dora Matching Game, Rich, Elisabeth & Kate set off for a bike ride to a playground in Parc de Woluwe. It is a beautiful summer day in Brussels with blue skies (let's hope a cold front doesn't blow in!). I am looking forward to a nice quiet walk in the Parc Woluwe woods and meeting up at 12:15pm for a picnic lunch.

So much of the Parc de Woluwe woods reminds me of Hills & Dales park in Dayton, Ohio where I grew up. Hills & Dales Park was originally designed between 1906 and 1918 by the famous Olmsted Brothers landscape architecture firm, renowned for their work on Central Park in New York City. It is situated at the border of Oakwood, Dayton and Kettering, Ohio. With its lush rolling hills, majestic trees, quiet streams and ponds, Hills & Dales holds a special place in my heart. Some of my favorite memories are of Hills & Dales Park whether riding my bike through the woods with my brothers and sisters to swim practice at Dayton Country Club, attending Keyes family reunions at the picnic shelters, collecting clay from the streams or running with my Dad.

http://www.metroparks.org/getoutside/rebirthHillsDalesPark.aspx

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

How Much Will Caramel Cost: 100 Euros?

This afternoon Elisabeth bounded down the stairs and rushed out of school. She didn't stop at the play ground at ISB. Elisabeth wanted to arrive first at Ariosa so that she could ride Caramel. Monsieur Alan had Caramel saddled and ready to go. Elisabeth spent 15 minutes in the Manage riding Caramel before the other children arrived. Monsieur Alan let Elisabeth be the coach and lead the others during the lesson. Elisabeth was so happy. She was grinning from ear to ear after the lesson.

During dinner this evening Elisabeth talked about what it would be like to have Caramel as her horse. She said today that she will ask Monsieur Alan if she can buy Caramel with her allowance money. Elisabeth said Caramel will probably cost 100 Euro. She asked if she could borrow it from me. Elisabeth wants to bring Caramel back to the US so much. It reminded me of Tatum O'Neill and Pie in International Velvet.

I'm almost in tears thinking about how difficult her last lesson will be for all of us. Caramel has the sweetest disposition and is so gentle. Caramel takes good care of Elisabeth and Elisabeth takes good care of Caramel. They are a great team.

I called Rich with my sob story. He said, "That's how you get suckered into buying a pony!"



Saturday, June 19, 2010

La Menage de la Cambre

This morning Elisabeth went to a birthday party for her friend, Joia, at the La Menage de la Cambre in Ixelles in Brussels. The Menage borders the Bois de la Cambre, an urban public park on the edge of the Sonian Forest in Brussels, Belgium. The forest has an area of 1.23 square kilometres. Elisabeth insisted upon wearing her riding clothes. She enjoyed pony rides with her ISB friends in the woods, as well as cake. What a fun morning!

Musee de Transport Urban Bruxellois

Elisabeth had a birthday party this afternoon for her friend, Talya. While Elisabeth was at the birthday party, Kate and I visited the Musee de Transport Urban Bruxellois in Woluwe St. Pierre. The museum is at the corner of Tervuren and Sovereign in Brussels.

First, Kate and I rode an old-fashioned tram to Tervuren. What fun! Kate was thrilled! During the ride back to the tram station, she fell asleep. (For my fellow Daytonians, the tram reminded me of the Wright Brothers' trams that transported our wedding guests from Emmanuel Church to the Trails End Club for our wedding reception in August 2000).

We enjoyed talking with one of the tram conductors, a retired Brit living with his wife and family in Brussels. What a fun hobby for retirement!

After our tram ride, we toured the museum. Kate enjoyed selecting and purchasing a postcard from the gift shop. She is fascinated by trains!

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

The Queen Mary

We enjoyed a lovely visit with Rich's parents in early June. They sailed over the Atlantic on the Queen Mary. Gretchen and Mike arrived in Southampton and took the train to Brussels. The girls enjoyed their visit. They especially loved hearing about the ship and the balls!

1950s American Diner in Brussels

After school today the girls had a play date with their friends, Anna and Sarah, at the playground in the Bois de la Cambre. The girls enjoyed a pony ride as well. After dinner we drove to the 1950'S American Diner in Ixelles. Imagine pink and turquoise booths with real American food: hot dogs, hamburgers, milk shakes, etc. What a treat!

1950s American Diner
www.50samericandiner.be
Rue de Marchienne 108
6110 Montigny le tilleul, Belgique
0477 46 25 66

Sunday, June 13, 2010

A Four Way Intersection with No Stop Sign?

On Friday Kate and I went to lunch with her friend, Brady, and his Mom, Karen. It was their last day in Brussels before flying back to North Carolina. We went to McDonald's in Ixelles and the kids ate lunch and played in the play area there.

After lunch we drove Karen and Brady to their apartment in Ixelles. In Ixelles there are lots of four way intersections with no stop signs. By law, the car to the right has the right of way, but I am always nervous when I approach these intersections! I think my blood pressure went through the roof of the car!

I am definitely looking forward to stop signs in Virginia!

Can Caramel Come With Us?

For the past six months Elisabeth has taken riding lessons at Ariosa, a stable in Hoeilaart, Belgium. She started off with private lessons with Miss Barbara for 30 minutes once a week. Elisabeth has progessed to a weekly group lesson for one hour with Monsiuer Alan on Tuesdays after school. Last week she galloped for the first time!

Her favorite pony is Caramel, a Shetland pony. After her lesson Elisabeth leads Caramel to her stall (#30), takes off her saddle and bridle. Then Elisabeth feeds Caramel carrots to eat after her lesson. Elisabeth is heartbroken to leave her pony. Yesterday, Elisabeth asked, "Can Caramel come with us to Virginia?" Will Monsiuer Alan sell Caramel to me?"

Elisabeth has three more riding lessons with Monsiuer Alan and Caramel before we leave for Virginia. Caramel can not come with us to Virginia, but I will take a lot of pictures so that she can remember Caramel.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

"I want a house, Mommy!"

Kate's quote of the week, "I want a house, Mommy!"

I guess it's time to return to the States....the girls are tired of living in an apartment.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Strep Throat in Brussels

Kate has been sick all week. High fever of 102.5 under her armpit. Another parent whose husband works at the US Embassy recommended a pediatrician in Woluwe-St. Pierre, Dr. Annick Grymonprez. She was terrific with Kate and said that she had strep throat. Dr. Grymonprez prescribed Amoxicilline for her strep throat and said I could use our Tylenol Cold/Flu for the fever (so glad it hadn't expired!).

Kate and I found Popsicles at the local Del Haize grocery store (although we don't have the freezer space!). We also bought lots of sorbet, 7UP and Sprite to sooth her throat. What a nice week of treats for Kate!

The pediatrician said she could go back to school tomorrow. I think she is excited to see her friends. I am glad she is well, but I will miss playing Candyland and the Dora Matching Game with Kate.

BEPS Summer Fair

Last weekend was Kate's Summer Fair at BEPS on Franklin Roosevelt. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed playing old fashioned games at the summer fair. One of their favorites was "fishing". They also enjoyed the more modern moon bounces, merry-go-rounds, and the good old-fashioned barbecue from the famous Irish butcher in Brussels. It was a warm day. Elisabeth and Kate wore their favorite summer dresses and sandals. Kate had a wonderful time with her friends and teachers. She will be sorry to leave BEPS. When we talk about the move in July, Kate asks if we can wait until after the BEPS Halloween Party and the BEPS Winter Concert....

First Grade Play: The Lorax

Today Kate and I went to ISB for the first grade theatre production. Each of the four first grade classes performed a play: The Great Kapok Tree, The Golden Goose, Sleeping Beauty and The Lorax.

Kate loved watching her sister on stage. What a treat! Elisabeth had several role in The Lorax: a duck, a house, a tree, etc. Afterwards Kate gave Elisabeth a bouquet of red roses. She loves her sister so much!

The Lorax is a story about the tree loving Lorax and the greedy Once-ler. When the Once-ler shows up, he notices a forest of Truffula trees. He realizes that these natural resources could be profitable by making "Thneeds" out of them. A Thneed is a fine something that all people need. The Once-ler, in his greedy state, encounters the Lorax. The Lorax "speaks for the trees because the trees have no tongues". He protests. The Once-ler calls his family one by one and then all of them came and started to help him cut down the trees. They started whacking down trees to make Thneeds, something that everyone needs. These "things" started to sell at an amazing pace and the Once-ler was making so much money. Pretty soon, something very terrible happened. In his quest for money he polluted the air, polluted the water, and deforested all the "special trees" from the land. This, in turn, drove away the animals that had lived in the area. They had relied on the trees for food and shelter. After the very last Truffula tree was chopped, his family left him with no trees and no more money. When the Lorax drifted away from the polluted mess he left a pile of rocks where he stood, with one word..."Unless".


Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Winter Coats in June

Today is June 1st. However, it feels like November in Brussels! Kate asked to wear her winter coat today. We all piled on sweaters and warm socks.

Monday, May 31, 2010

An Afternoon at Bokrijk: Socialist Solidarity Day

On Sunday we drove to visit Bokrijk, an open-air museum in eastern Belgium. There are over 120 historic buildings from all over Belgium reassembled to give visitors an overview of Belgian history. It includes a grand Renaissance Flemish town square, farmhouses, mills, craft shops, etc. Park staff demonstrate traditional activities like lace making. There are also fishing ponds, a deer park, horse-cart rides, and one of Belgium's biggest playgrounds with some amazing slides.

Predictably, we spent all of our time at the playground. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed the Viking themed playground, pony rides, g0-cart rides and the slides. It was a rainy day so we enjoyed a hot chocolate and the indoor playground in the afternoon.

Sunday was Socialist Solidarity Day at Bokrijk. Free admission!


Sunday, May 30, 2010

Culture Shock?

I signed up for a seminar in June at ISB regarding transition for families moving back to the US. I want to make the transition to the US as smooth as possible for the girls (and myself!).

I experienced my first "culture shock" this week. I called the US to sign up Elisabeth and Kate for summer camps. Just talking on the phone with an attendant at one of the camps was stressful. American English, American schedules, American web site sign-up, etc. I think I must be experiencing culture shock.

Let's hope the girls have an easier time switching gears (and continents!).

Friday, May 28, 2010

Make Way for the Ducklings

Last week I went to my Ruth's house in Tervuren for a walk and tea. Ruth gave me a tour of the park behind Tervuren. As we walked we came upon a mother duck and her ducklings in the middle of the road. We escorted them to the side of the road. Later another gentleman escorted them up the road to the park gates. It reminded us of Make Way for the Ducklings by Robert McCloskey.

Whether in Tervuren Park or Woluwe Park there are plenty of gaggles of goslings swimming in the lakes, mother ducks and ducklings walking through the parks and baby rabbits hopping through the gardens. Spring is in the air.

After our walk we enjoyed a cup of tea, but I couldn't pick up my tea cup with my right hand (I've been using my left hand/arm for the last 8 months). Ruth gave me the phone number of a US trained Chiropractor in Auderghem (across the street from our apartment building). I have had two appointments with the chiropractor. Finally, today my hand has opened. It is a little stiff, but the pain in my arm is gone. I am overjoyed!

We've had a wonderful year in Brussels, but the problems with my arm have put a grey cloud over our adventures. I have pretty much lost the use of my right arm. None of the specialist doctors were able to alleviate the pain without proposing surgery, more cortisone shots, anti-inflammatory drugs, etc. So happy to be on the mend.

Monday, May 24, 2010

A Sunday in the Park

A few weeks ago we enjoyed a lovely Sunday afternoon in Auderghem. We bicycled along the bike trail on Sovereign across from Val Duchesse. We played a round of putt-putt golf with Elisabeth and Kate. Afterwards we walked to the lake. It was a picturesque afternoon with swans swimming under weeping willow trees, families picnicing on the shore, and rowboats in the lake. Rich and Elisabeth rowed us around the lake. It reminded me of the French Post-Impressionist painter Georges Seurat's A Sunday in the Park.

After venturing onto the lake, we sat at a table at the Brasserie des Etangs Mellaerts. I enjoyed a Lemon Spa (i.e. Sprite in Belgium) and Rich enjoyed a local beer. The girls played on the playground behind the restaurant. Most families were enjoying a late 3-4 hour lunch.

Brasserie des Etangs Mellaerts
Bld Souverain 275 Vorstlaan
1150 Woluwe-St. Lambert

Belgians seem to have a great life and enjoy themselves. Often restaurants are near playgrounds. The parents sit, smoke and drink while the children play on the playground, ride ponies, and jump in moon bounces.

Rich and I discussed the possibility of opening something similar in Virginia along the bike trail. But, we're not sure it would work: Americans just don't sit and enjoy a 3-4 hour meal that often. Plus, we would have a difficult time matching the quality of French cuisine in Belgium. If only we could take another year off at the Cordon Bleu in Paris....

Make Way for the Ducklings

One of Elisabeth and Kate's favorite books is Make Way for the Ducklings by Robert McCloskey. I believe it was a gift from their Aunt Polly, a native of Boston. The book was first published in 1941. It tells the story of a pair of mallard ducks who decide to raise their family on an island in the pond in Boston Public Garden, a park in the center of Boston, Massachusetts.

Last month while walking in Tervuren with my friend, Ruth, we came upon a mallard duck and her ducklings. A gentleman with a dog was carefully steering them along the rode to the entrance to Tervuren park where they could safely walk and swim in the lakes. It was quite charming!

Robert McCloskey was born in Hamilton, Ohio in 1914. On our next visit to Ohio, I think the girls would love to visit Robert McCloskey's hometown of Hamilton, Ohio. They love all of his books - especially Make Way for the Ducklings and Lentil.

De Kluis: Girl Scout Camping Day

A few weeks ago Elisabeth spent a Saturday with the Girl Scouts for Camping Day. Despite the jet lag from his flight from Houston the previous day, Rich woke up bright and early. He drove Elisabeth and her friend, Madeleine, to De Kluis. They arrived by 8:00am on a Saturday morning. Elisabeth returned around 10:00pm that night with Madeleine's parents. What a long day!

The De Kluis Youth Residence is the oldest youth stay of Flanders, the Dutch-speaking part of Belgium. In 1934 the Scouts & Guides Association of Flanders bought the old forester house "La Retraite" and enlarged the building into a foursquare Brabant farmhouse. The surrounding pastures and fallow grounds have been planted with a large variation of indigenous and exotic trees. This gives the Youth Residence De Brink its unique characteristics and an exceptional play forest.

De Kluis is situated nearby the largest mixed broad-leaved forest of Flanders: Meerdaal wood – Heverlee forest (1900 hectares). This is one of the last wooded locations in the Flanders since the last ice age. The nature reserve "de Doode Bemde" is 200 hectares large and lies 2 km away. This domain has magnificent nature surroundings and is situated in the middle of Belgium, just on the linguistic frontier.

De Kluis
http://www.hopper.be/jeugdverblijf/de-kluis

Boudewijn Seapark in Brugges

A few weeks ago we drove to the Boudewijn Seapark in Brugges. We were pleasantly surprised to discover an old-fashioned theme park. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed driving old-fashioned Ford Model Ts and riding on the Mississippi Queen, the train around the park, the Ferris Wheel, and the Orca roller coaster. They also enjoyed watching a sea lion show and a dolphin show.

Unlike the United States, the park was remarkably uncrowded. We waited in short lines (if at all!). I think their favorite was driving the Ford Model T. Rich and I sat in the back seat of the car while the girls pretended to drive us to college!

Boudewijn Seapark
www.boudewijnseapark.be/

Saturday, May 22, 2010

What is a Mall?

During our drive home from Normandy, we stopped at a McDonald's just north of Paris. The McDonald's was in a mall. As we parked the car and walked towards the McDonald's, Elisabeth asked, "What are all these stores doing in the same building?" Rich and I suppressed our laughter and explained malls and how they are organized.

Malls do not really exist in Brussels. There is only one that I know of in Brussels in Woluwe St. Pierre. I go there occasionally, but the girls like the small shops like L'Atelier de Gepeto in Boisfort (similar to Doodlehoppers in Falls Church).

A Bicycle Built for Two (or three or four!)

Growing up in Dayton, Ohio I enjoyed bicycling with my family. We were somewhat of a novelty in the 1980s. My parents were very athletic and loved the outdoors and expected the same from their children. When all the kids drove mopeds to swim practice, we bicycled to Dayton Country Club at 7:00am every morning during the summer (often with our tennis rackets tucked into our backpacks). When others drove to family reunions, we rode our bicycles to Hills & Dales Park or our Great Aunt Ann and Uncle Carl's in Bellbrook, Ohio. We all had tall orange flags on the back of our bikes for safety. It was the late 1970's so we didn't wear helmets.

Prior to my pregnancy with Kate, I would bicycle with Elisabeth on the bike trails in Virginia. I had a child's seat installed on the back of my bicycle. Elisabeth loved to put on her helmet and ride in the seat around the cul-de-sac. Once I had two small toddlers I assumed that my bicycling days were over: I just couldn't imagine having two toddlers on my bike!

We have observed several different versions of a bicycle built for two (or three or four!) in Belgium. First, there was the bike with the wheelbarrow attached to the front in the Netherlands. Parents bicycle with four or five small children in the wheelbarrow attached in front. Second, there was the bicycle with the "sidecar" in Normandy, France. An adult rode the bicycle and a child sat in the sidecar. Finally, there was the bike with the child's seat on the handlebars. I found it amazing that parents can balance their children on their handlebars! One of Kate's classmates at BEPS bicycles with her family to school every day in a bicycle with a wheelbarrow in front. What fun! I hope we can take a ride on one before we leave.

Elisabeth and Kate enjoy their bikes. We bought their bikes in Tervuren prior to "No Car Day" in Brussels in September 2009. The girls loved biking in the streets of Brussels that day. We took off Elisabeth's training wheels last summer when she was 5 1/2. Kate still has training wheels, but is anxious to take them off soon in Brussels (Rich and I are not sure if we're ready!).

Bicycles are a way of life here in Belgium. Children in Brussels learn to bicycle at a very young age. Often we see one or two year olds on bikes without training wheels! And, they don't wear helmets here (although helmets are required for riding horses in Belgium!). At almost every traffic circle bicycles are available to rent. People bicycle to work and school in rain, sleet or snow. They wear rain coats and rain pants or large rain ponchos over their bikes to stay dry in the rain. What an incredibly green way to commute!

Many do not wear helmets while they bike. A Belgian parent told me not to wear a helmet when I bike in Brussels. She said that cars would think I was a very serious biker and not give me as much room.


Thursday, May 20, 2010

Normandy 2010

On Wednesday, May 12, 2010 Rich met us at ISB, Elisabeth's school. From ISB we drove our little silver C4 Citroen to Bazouges La Perouse, near Le Mont St. Michel in France. I drove while Rich worked on his blackberry and participated in conference calls. Elisabeth & Kate were helpful and stayed quiet during the conference calls (they were tired from playing on the playground!). Shortly after crossing over the border into France, we stopped at the same "Potterybarnish" truck stop as in February for dinner. Great food and comfy atmosphere on the road!

As we drove to Bazouges La Perouse, the picturesque Normandy countryside unfolded: the cows, sheep and horses grazing, the green grass swaying in the wind, and the pink sun setting in the distance. While the sun was setting I drove over the Pont de Normandie, a cable-stayed road bridge that spans the river Seine linking Le Havre to Honfleur in Normandy. There was no other place we
wanted to be in the world. It was a wonderful start to our adventure!

Bazouges La Perouse, France
We arrived at our rental house in Bazouges La Perouse late that evening in France. Rich carried the girls inside. While I put them to bed Rich unpacked the car. The house was so charming. It reminded me of my grandmother's in St. Anthony, Oh
io: an old turn of the century house with large windows and old-fashioned shutters. On the inside it had hardwood floors, an old farm table with chairs, and cozy couches surrounding a fireplace.

On Thursday morning we awoke to the church bells ringing in the distance. The girls were playing quietly in Kate's room. The owners had converted the fireplace to a "barn" with animals, fences, and farm equipment. What a surprise for the girls to have such wonderful toys! And, what a treat for us to catch up on our sleep and reading while they played! Rich made breakfast in the cozy kitchen and we enjoyed a delightful breakfast. We had planned to leave by 8:00am to visit Le Mont St. Michel that morning, but we didn't leave the house until 9:30am.

Bazouges la Perouse
http://www.bazouges.com/versionanglaise/information/information.htm

Le Mont St. Michel
We drove through the countryside in Normandy to Le Mont St. Michel, a rocky tidal island. During the Hundred Years' War the English made repeated assaults on the island, but were unable to seize it due to the abbey's improved fortifications. Le Mont Saint-Michel was previously connected to the mainland via a thin natural land bridge which is now a man-made causeway with expanded parking.

We arrived at low tide, parked the car, explored the beach and walked through the city gates. We strolled through the narrow streets ascending to the the monastery of Le Mont-Saint-Michel. The narrow streets were crowded. After touring the monastery we walked down to the city gates. We ate lunch at La Mere Poulard. La Mere Poulard is known for delicious omelets. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed watching the chefs in the old-fashioned kitchen making the omelets.

We returned to Bazouges La Perouse for a quiet afternoon at home. Elisabeth and Kate played with the toys in their room and in the yard. They pretended to be chefs at a restaurant. After a quick snack at the house, we drove to the beach at Cancale. As walked along the pier, collected seashells, skipped stones, and rode the merry-go-round. We ate dinner at a restaurant on the pier and watched the the tide.

Omaha Beach, Bayeux and Rouen
On Friday we enjoyed a lovely breakfast. Rich took the girls for a walk to the local boulangerie while I finished packing. Tarte au citron s'il vous plait. What delicious pastries! We will miss them! After savoring the pastries we drove to Omaha Beach. We walked along the peer, read about WWII and the American troops at Omaha Beach, and rode the merry-go-round. It was a beautiful day so we bought lunch and sat along the waterfront for lunch. Unfortunately, there were long lines for the museum at Omaha Beach so we did not go into the museum (tough with a 4 year old!).

After lunch we drove to Bayeux, France, a lovely medieval town. Bayeux was the first city in France to be liberated during the Battle of Normandy. The buildings in Bayeux were virtually untouched during the Battle of Normandy (the German forces were fully involved in defending Caen from the Allies). We parked the car and walked to the Tapisserie de la Reine Mathilde Museum to see the Bayeux tapestry, listed as a “Memory of the World” by UNESCO. It is an embroidery, 70 metres long, made in the 11th century. The Bayeux Tapestry celebrates the conquest of England by William, Duke of Normandy. The linen canvas was embroidered by monks in the south of England after the Battle of Hastings on October 14th, 1066. Legendary animals, ships, Vikings, Norman and Saxon cavalries illustrate the exploits of William and his opponent Harold, another pretender to the throne of England.

Elisabeth and Kate were quite impressed with their first audioguide at a museum! Rich and I listened to the adult version. After the tour we all agreed that it was a worth it! After viewing the tapestry, we walked to the Bayeux Cathedral. Elisabeth and Kate liked the Romanesque Church underneath the cathedral. The stars on the ceiling reminded the girls of St. Peters in Rome.

We drove from Bayeux to Rouen, we checked into our hotel and walked along the Seine to the main square where Joan of Arc was executed. We enjoyed dinner on the square around 5pm. Unfortunately, La Coronne, a restaurant recommended by Julia Child, did not open until 7pm. After dinner we walked to the cathedral in Rouen. Monet painted it often and we felt that it was important to see before visiting Monet's house and garden the following day.

Giverny, France & Monet's Garden
On Saturday we enjoyed a lovely breakfast at our hotel in Rouen. After breakfast we walked with the girls along the Seine to a play ground on the river. We played at the park and enjoyed the morning along the Seine in Rouen. Later that morning we drove to Giverny. After walking through Giverny we toured the Musee des Inmpresionistes. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed their audio guides. We ate lunch at the museum's cafe.

After lunch we walked to the Monet House and Garden. Elisabeth and Kate sat on benches under lilac bushes and sketched flowers and bridges. They imitated the other artists painting in the gardens. Everything was in bloom. The girls enjoyed the Japanese bridges and the butterflies.

We first read about Monet's Garden in Linnea in Monet's Garden at the Mary Riley Stiles Library in Falls Church, Virginia. Linnea and her elderly friend Mr. Bloom travel to Paris and visit Monet's home in Giverny. The book is filled with airy, light-filled watercolors showing Linnea in Monet's house in Giverny. I think Elisabeth and Kate felt like Linnea that Saturday in Giverny. Next time they want to bring their easels and watercolors!

After a final leisurely stroll through Monet's garden, we left around 4:30pm and drove home to Brussels. We stopped at McDonald's outside of Paris. After dinner the girls fell asleep in the car and we arrived home later that evening.



Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Is that another scarf?

When I was a teenager my oldest sister returned from her junior year abroad at the Sorbonne in Paris, France. With her she brought lots of scarves. They might have been very stylish in France, but in conservative Dayton, Ohio where we grew up they were avant-garde. Papagallo's was the place to shop in Dayton: monogrammed sweaters, argyle socks, pleated skirts, etc. I wasn't enamored with the scarves as a teenager and was quite happy with my preppy existence.

Twenty years later I am living in Brussels and I have developed a scarf obsession. I found my most recent scarf at Port Stephanie while I was walking to the Grand Plaza to fix Elisabeth's violin last week. It was mid-May and I was wearing my grey winter coat. It had just started to rain - typical of Brussels. I still had quite a long walk ahead (and the tram ride back to pick up Kate from school at BEPS). I saw a splash of pink pastels in the window. I couldn't resist. It was just what I needed on a cold, wet and rainy day in May: color!

I didn't hide my purchase. I wore it as a badge of honor: Spring had finally come to Brussels! Rich came home from work that night and said, "Is that another scarf?" I understand his concern as I've bought more scarves than anything else in Brussels. However, in my defense, the scarves are inexpensive. Moreover, it is just bone chilling cold and damp here in Brussels! Scarves provide that extra layer of warmth and protection from the cold whether I am indoors or out.

It's quite possible that my scarves will sit on a shelf in my closet in Falls Church, Virginia for the next twenty years. They are a bit avant-garde for Falls Church City, Virginia. Perhaps in a few months after our return Elisabeth and Kate will enjoy them for dress-up....

Monday, May 17, 2010

Going Grey in Brussels...Naturally

Rich and I noticed our first grey hairs. Of course, Rich's grey gives him a more distinguished air. He is still youthful, just a touch of grey at the temples (or it could just be blond?).

As for me, I have highlighted my hair for the last 20 years. It is likely that my grey has been there for awhile, but I never noticed (until Rich pointed it out!). I've stopped highlighting my hair in Brussels: I am too scared of the pink, purple and red streaks. The question is: what is my natural hair color? It was a strawberry blond before I began swimming competitively when I was six years old. But, it is much darker now. Let's hope I don't go all grey before our return this summer...



Normandy 2010

We returned from Normandy late Saturday night. What a wonderful vacation! Rich created a slide show of our vacation in Normandy before he left yesterday for Houston via Paris. What fun! Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed watching the Normandy slide show this morning before breakfast. I am enjoying the slide show too!


Monday, May 10, 2010

Root Canal on the Roads: Alternatives to the Automobile

During the week I spend a minimum of three (3) hours in the car per day. I drive Rich to the Metro, Elisabeth to ISB and Kate to BEPS in my little C4 Citroen. This morning's commute felt like a root canal. I am not sure which was the most grating on my nerves: the construction (they are extending the #94 tram line near our apartment), the motorcycles and scooters, the trams, the traffic circle in Boisfort, the bicycles, or the small car technology.

After dropping off Kate this morning, I parked the car and walked. It took me longer to do my errands. I walked to the Grand Plaza to fix Elisabeth's violin at Azzato. I stopped at the grocery on Avenue Louise for much needed orange juice, fresh bread and dinner. Although my grocery bags broke as I was walking back to the car, I was SOOOOO happy not to be in the car. I plan to do the same tomorrow: put away my car keys and walk to the Grand Plaza to pick up Elisabeth's violin for her lesson at 2pm.

Driving on the Tram Tracks?
Driving on the tram tracks is clear and easy way to get around the congestion and construction. I have seen several cars driving on the tram tracks in Brussels. But, I've also heard of their collisions (I saw a bus collide with a tram over the weekend!). Not really my style as I would like all of us to get to school or work in one piece.

Bus or Tram?
Another alternative is to take the bus or tram to school. The cost of the school bus is just too much. In order to ride the public bus system we would first have to get through the construction outside of our apartment. Also, the buses don't run directly to ISB or BEPS (I will check the bus schedule again for switches).

The tram is probably the best option, but is not a viable option at this point. They are extending the #94 Tram from Hermann-Debroux to Chaussee de Tervuran. It is under construction on Sovereign just outside our apartment. The tram starts running July 1 when we are scheduled to leave!

The Ring
My best option at this point is to find a different route. Tomorrow Rich thinks I should try the Ring, a superhighway around the city of Brussels. It is in the opposite direction of our commute, but perhaps worth a shot.


Sunday, May 9, 2010

Mother's Day in Belgium

Belgians do not celebrate Mother's Day. However, Rich, Elisabeth and Kate made their own celebration for me. First, the girls woke up and played quietly. I was able to sleep in until 7:50am on Sunday morning! They made a delicious breakfast with Rich and we all went to church at the IPC this morning. We brought snacks for the reception afterwards and the girls helped me set up the snacks. I had a special morning with Kate - I helped with Kate's preschool Sunday School class. It was nice to see Kate so grown up!

After church we drove through the lovely Belgian countryside to La Maison Basse, a lovely restaurant with extensive well-manicured grounds. Elisabeth and Kate walked over bridges and under bridges to the lovely restaurant surrounded by peaceful ponds. There was a fireplace in the dining area. The chef cooked Rich's steak and my tuna in the fireplace. For dessert Elisabeth and Kate ate chocolate mousse (they called it pudding!), I ordered creme brulee and Rich ordered fresh strawberries with lemon.

La Maison Basse
http://www.la-maison-basse.be/

After lunch we drove to Villers Ville, a former monastery now in ruins. We met a British photographer, Trevor Waldron, for a family photo shoot arranged through the American Women's Club of Brussels (AWCB) - a special gift for me, Rich's Mom and my Mom. We enjoyed walking around the grounds of Villers Ville from 2-3pm while Mr. Waldron took photos. We can't wait to see the photos!

We weren't ready to go home so we drove to Halle, Belgium to hike through the forest to see the bluebells. Several families told us about the bluebells and highly recommended visiting Halle. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed running through the sea of bluebells in Halle. There are lovely trails and a beautiful pine forest.

So glad that Rich was able to be in Belgium to help me celebrate Mother's Day!

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Tee-ball in Brussels: The First Hit of the Game

Rich coached Elisabeth's tee-ball team, the Red Sox, this afternoon. Elisabeth hit the first hit of the game. She played first base and then moved to third base. After the game she climbed trees with her friends! She was all smiles this afternoon when she came home.

A Chocolate Factory in Brussels: Planet Chocolat

Elisabeth recently completed reading Charlie and the Chocolate Factory by Roald Dahl. To celebrate, we visited an actual chocolate factory in Brussels, Planet Chocolat. Planet Chocolat is an "avant-garde" chocolate manufacturer working in the tradition of the past. Planet Chocolat produces the highest quality hand-made chocolate with 100% pure cocoa butter.

At 4pm on Saturday afternoon we enjoyed a demonstration on the history and manufacture of chocolates, tasting a variety of chocolates and a delicious hot chocolate! Elisabeth and Kate were remarkably well behaved: if they answered a question correctly, the demonstrator gave them a chocolate (or two!).

After the tour we celebrated with dinner on the Grand Plaza. Way to go Elisabeth! Next up: Charlie and the Great Glass Elevator.


Monday, May 3, 2010

The Final Countdown: Eight More Weeks

We have approximately eight more weeks in Brussels. Kate's last day of school is June 30th. We will stay through the end of the school year for the girls. We will fly across the pond shortly thereafter. I am busy packing up, trying to sell a few things from IKEA (easel, etc. for the playroom) and give away other things.

Rich is commuting back and forth from DC to Brussels during May and June.

A busy two months ahead, but all in all a wonderful year.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Elisabeth: Our Toothless Wonder

Elisabeth lost her first front tooth last week. It was very loose, barely hanging on. Kate provided some assistance and knocked it out while wrestling Elisabeth. Elisabeth was upset, but happy to have the tooth fairy visit! Elisabeth spent her 6 Euro from the tooth ferry at L'atelier de Gepetto, a toy store in Middelbourg near Boisfort in Brussels. Elisabeth shared her money with Kate because she was so helpful! They both bought Baba Papa dolls, one pink and one green.

I anticipate Elisabeth will lose the other tooth later this week...

April in Rome, Italy

In 1998 I travelled to Rome to visit my sister Kathy and her husband, Tim. Kathy and Tim were taking a year off ("YO"). They spent their first six months in France and travelled around the Mediterranean for the next six months. I met up with them in Rome. What a fun week with Kathy and Tim and their friends, TC and Katie! Returning to Rome 12 years later, I was excited to be the tour guide for Rich and my daughters, Elisabeth & Kate.

The Vatican City: The Vatican Museum & Gardens, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica

We rented a wonderful and cozy apartment in Campo de' Fiori. My sister, Caroline, recommended that we stay in Campo de' Fiori in Rome (Caroline studied in Rome and her husband is Italian). We arrived late on a Thursday evening. Elisabeth and Kate fell asleep in the cab from the airport. While I put the girls to bed in the apartment, Rich walked to a local market and bought groceries for the weekend.

On Friday morning Rich made a wonderful breakfast with eggs, sausage, and toast. Elisabeth and Kate were in heaven. They peeked through the curtains of the apartment at the square below. Elisabeth announced that there was a pizza parlor outside (it read "Piazza...." on the corner of the building). She asked if we could go there for dinner. So cute!

The weather was glorious (a nice break from Brussels). We left the apartment around 9am and walked across the Tiber River to the Vatican. I bought tickets to tour the Vatican Museum in advance. Our tickets were for 10am. We arrived in plenty of time. Elisabeth and Kate are great walkers! I think Elisabeth and Kate liked the Egyptian rooms, especially the mummies. Elisabeth also enjoyed the pottery from Jerusalem and the Middle East. (Kate asked, "When will we go to Jerusalem and see where Jesus lived?"). Elisabeth and Kate were awestruck by the opulence of the galleries and ceilings in the Vatican Museum, especially the ancient tapestry maps. They seemed to recognized continents.

We were only half way through the museum and they were getting tired. So we took a shortcut through the galleries to the Sistine Chapel (it was 11:00am and they were ready for lunch!). We enjoyed some quiet time in the Sistine Chapel. Elisabeth wants to be an artist when she grows up. Her art teacher recommended that we show her Michelangelo's fresco in the Sistine Chapel. The girls found some of the stories of the bible in the ceiling (they found the story of Adam and Eve first). After we left the Sistine Chapel we decided not to walk up around the dome (we were tired). We toured St. Peter's and the girls looked at the stars painted in the dome by Michelangelo. Elisabeth and Kate just stood and gazed above at the stars. It was hard to pull them away.

We left St. Peter's Basilica and headed straight for lunch along the avenue leading towards St. Peter's Square. We ate outside on the terrace between St. Peter's Basilica and the Castel Sant' Angelo. During lunch Elisabeth drew a picture of Rome and wrote "Roma: The Best City in the World." After lunch we took a carriage ride from St. Peter's Square to the Castel Sant' Angelo, Piazza Navona (where we got out of the carriage and looked at the ruins of the original racetrack built by Domitian), the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain. During the carriage ride, the horse would put is head into people's cars to say hello (they were friends of the driver!). A very happy horse!

Piazza di Spagna (The Spanish Steps)
We ate a gelato in St. Peter's Square after the carriage ride and began our walk to the Spanish Steps. We walked from St. Peter's Square to the Castel Sant' Angelo, across the Bridge of Angels over the Tiber River, continued along a shaded sidewalk along the Tiber River and finally turned right on V. Condotti towards the Spanish Steps. What great walkers!

When we turned onto V. Condotti, the girls were in awe. The crowds, the flowers, the fountain and steps in the distance were shining in the afternoon sunlight. Elisabeth and Kate sat next to the fountain. They threw in coins to make a wish (I'm glad we brought a lot of coins - there are so many fountains in Rome!). We walked up to the top of the Spanish Steps and bought a lemon citron. We sat on the steps and drank the lemon citron and enjoyed the view over the square below.

From the Spanish Steps we decided to "walk across Rome" - Rick Steves' had proposed it as a "Night Walk" - however, with two young children in tow, we doubted we would stay up late! Our next stop: the Trevi Fountain.

The Trevi Fountain
After the Spanish Steps, we walked to the Trevi Fountain, a Baroque fountain created by Nicola Salvi. We had a map, but didn't need it. We just followed the tour groups coming from the opposite direction. As we approached Elisabeth and Kate could hear the water splashing. Again, Elisabeth and Kate were amazed. They threw coins into the Trevi Fountain (and got a little wet). Fortunately, they didn't fall in!

Piazza Colonna & Piazza Capranica
We crossed the Via del Corso and came upon the Piazza Colonna, a quiet and grand square with a column honoring Marcus Aurelius. There was a smaller fountain. Elisabeth and Kate splashed each other (they didn't fall in!). We continued on our walk to the Piazza Capranica, another square with an Egyptian obelisk which was taken by Augustus after his victory in Egypt over Cleopatra and Marc Antony.

The Pantheon
We continued our walk towards the Pantheon through a narrow street. With each step the Pantheon came into view. It is an impressive structure, dominating the square. Half of it was covered in scaffolding and it was crowded so we decided to save it for early the next morning.

Plaza Navona
We continued our walk to the Piazza Navona. I think that they recognized the square and Domitian ruins from our carriage ride earlier in the day. Elisabeth and Kate watched the artists paint and the musicians play. They danced with Rich to the music and sat near the Bernini fountain.

Campo de' Fiori
We ended our evening at Campo de' Fiori, a "field of flowers". We ate dinner at a restaurant on the square. We found that at 5pm Campo de' Fiori was a wonderful place to eat dinner with a family. After dinner, the girls played around the square.

Capitol Hill, The Forum and The Colosseum
For Saturday I bought tickets to The Colosseum in advance for 10:00am Saturday morning. After we ate breakfast in our apartment, we walked from Campo de' Fiori to The Colosseum. The girls were surprised to turn the corner and see the Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II. Elisabeth and Kate were the first to spot the Colosseum in the distance!

The Colosseum was impressive. Luckily, we had advance tickets so we avoided hours in line. We climbed the steps to the top of the Colosseum. Elisabeth took pictures with her camera. After the Colosseum, we walked by the Arch of Constantine to enter the gates for The Forum and The Palatine Hill (another long line that we avoided!). We ate snack on some fallen columns in The Palatine Hill (no falls or skinned knees!). Elisabeth and Kate walked through The Forum. After walking past the Column of Trajan, Elisabeth and Kate found a pink scooter (the last item on our scavenger hunt!). They were so excited. It was pink with a butterfly and a heart. We took a few pictures of the girls with the scooter before lunch.

The Villa Borghese Gardens
After lunch we took a cab from The Forum to the Villa Borghese Gardens. What an amazing garden! Puppet shows, cafes, galleries, pony rides, choo-choo trains, play grounds, etc. The perfect place for a family in Rome! First, we rented a bicycle cart for a family of four. Rich and I (mainly Rich) bicycled the girls around the gardens for an hour. At one point we stopped and Elisabeth and Kate rode ponies through the gardens. Unfortunately, the battery died at the end so we really had to pedal to return the bicycle! After returning the bike cart, we ate a gelato (we averaged two gelatos a day in Rome!). Rather than take a cab home, we walked through the Villa Borghese Gardens to the Spanish Steps. We were a little lost at times, but we muffled through to discover a merry-go-round for the girls.

The Long Walk Home
After our long afternoon trek through the Villa Borghese gardens, we ate a gelato on the Spanish Steps of the Piazza di Spagna. We sat on the steps and enjoyed the beautiful weather. By now we knew our way around Rome. Elisabeth served as our "tour guide" and led us from the Trevi Fountain to Campo de' Fiori! We ate a fantastic dinner at another restaurant on the square. Elisabeth and Kate watched the street performers before we walked home for the evening.

The Pantheon: A Challenging Morning
On Sunday morning Rich, Elisabeth & Kate walked to a local pastry shop for breakfast while I finished packing. I left the apartment shortly after them to catch up, but I couldn't figure out how to get out of the building. There were huge doors and Rich had the keys. I sat inside the lovely and peaceful courtyard of our building for about 45 minutes. Finally, someone came and opened the doors (later I found out there was a button to open the doors - how did I miss it?). Luckily, Rich, Elisabeth and Kate were walking back to the apartment and Kate spotted me! Yeah!

We had saved the Pantheon for last morning, but the Pantheon was scheduled to close at 10:30am for a service. We walked from Campo de' Fiori to the Pantheon only to find that it was closed to the public due to a Reunification ceremony of Rome until 1pm. We were very disappointed. While we tried to regroup, we ate our delicious pastries on the steps. Elisabeth and Kate jumped over the ancient boulders. And, Rich treated us to a final carriage ride around Rome. The girls favorite was the Trevi Fountain and they threw in our remaining coins to ensure their return!

I can't describe how fantastic and wonderful it was to live in Rome for a weekend in Campo de' Fiori. But, we were glad to come home to Brussels. The girls played quietly in the afternoon on Sunday with their blocks while Rich made dinner and I unpacked (and started laundry!). Elisabeth and Kate built a very big play ground and church with their blocks. I love that they build something new and different after each trip.

I wish we could take them to Florence and Sienna like my sister took me. Perhaps we'll return in a few years....

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Mont St. Michel, Rouen and Giverny

We are planning a trip to France in May. Elisabeth and Kate both have a four day weekend (somehow their two separate school calendars lined up!). Rich and I are excited to take them to Mont St. Michel, Rouen and Giverny to visit Monet's house and garden.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

When in Rome....

We are planning a four day weekend in Rome at the end of April/early May. We rented an apartment in the Campo de Fiori neighborhood. Today, I checked out travel books on Rome at the AWCB. We are still researching and planning for our trip, but I like the Fodor's series of travel books (Around Rome with Kids, etc.).

Rome Itinerary
Day 1: The Forum, Roman Coliseum and Pantheon
Day 2: The Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica
Day 3: A Fountain Scavenger Hunt for the girls?

Not sure if the volcanic ash from Iceland will enable us to fly! Airports are still closed in Brussels as of today, Tuesday, April 20th.

Julia Child: My Life in France

I love going to the AWCB library. I run into American friends who are here for a short time period. We exchange travel ideas, books, etc. Today, Niki recommended reading My Life in France by Julia Child with Alex Prud'homme. After reading the book she went with friends to Paris on the Thalys train to visit Julia Child's house, the Cordon Bleu, etc. in Paris. I'm not sure if we can visit this year, but I checked out the book...

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Spring In Holland

On Saturday, April 17 we drove with Nana and Papa toward Amsterdam in Holland to enjoy the glorious colors, shapes and fragrances of the Dutch flowering bulbs. Keukenhof was once the royal hunting grounds and kitchen garden of Jacoba van Beieren, Countess of Holland, Zeeland and Hainut. And, the Netherlands has a long tulip history. The tulip bulb was actually discovered in the 17th century. Many merchants made money trading the bulbs.

On Saturday we left Brussels shortly after breakfast and arrived at Keukenhof in mid-morning. It was truly a feast for all of our senses! We strolled through several of the gardens and admired the tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils in bloom. We climbed to the top of the windmill built in 1892 to regulate the water levels in the polder. We gazed out over acres upon acres of bulbs. After climbing down from the windmill, we listened to a troop of Hungarian singers and dancers in the square.

After lunch a Dutch shoemaker, Nicole, made wooden shoes for Elisabeth and Kate. The girls picked their own designs of daisies and tulips. Nicole is the only female shoemaker in Europe. She was an impressive artist. I even had a pair of wooden shoes made for me! We'll put the shoes out for St. Nicholas in December next year.

Every year there is a different theme at Keukenhof. This year the theme at Keukenhof is "From Russia with Love". Elisabeth and Kate discovered matryoshka dolls, a mosaic of St. Basil's Cathedral, as well as the Russian ballet in the gardens. They also discovered a gardening shed from a Russian fairy tale.

Keukenhof was impressive, not only for its lovely flowers, but also for its sculpture and exhibits throughout the garden. Elisabeth and Kate liked the lily pad sculptures in a pond. We walked out into the pond on the lily pads. Kate thought she was walking on water!

Elisabeth and Kate played at the adventure playground, inside Native American tee pees, tree houses, zip lines and tunnels in Keukenhof. There was something fun for the girls around every corner! Somehow we missed the petting zoo and the animals!

My Mom enjoyed Peter's Patio Garden. Outside was a vegetable plot and inside was a display of homemade preserves built into one of the garden walls.

I'm not sure if we have time to go back to Keukenhof for the special summer flowers and the chrysanthemums. Perhaps in June. It was truly the greatest flower show I have ever seen.

Spring Break 2010: Brussels and the Romantic Road in Germany

For the second week of Spring Break, my parents, Walter and Patty Keyes, flew into Brussels to visit from Dayton, Ohio. They were delayed in Atlanta due to a lightening storm. After spending the night in a hotel in Atlanta they finally took flight to Brussels. They were upgraded to first class. What a nice way to fly! Elisabeth and Kate were so excited to see them when they arrived in Brussels.

Prior to their arrival, we rented a minivan so we were all able to fit (our little Citroen barely sits four comfortably!). We brought them to Auderghem to unload their luggage and freshen up in their apartment. Our neighbor, Mr. Wang, graciously invited my parents to stay in his apartment down the hall while he was in Atlanta for business.

Grand Plaza & Brussels
On our first afternoon in Brussels we took the metro from Hermann Debroux to Park Metro Station. We strolled through the lovely gardens near the Palace with Nana and Papa. The girls especially enjoyed the fountains. It had just rained so there was a rainbow above the fountain. From Park we walked to the Musical Instruments Museum for lunch and a panoramic view of Brussels skyline from the 10th floor restaurant. Later we walked down to the Grand Plaza for chocolates from Elisabeth, delicious waffles across from the Hotel Amigo and a visit to the Mannequin Pis. My parents were tired so rather than walk up the hill to the Park Metro Station we walked to the Central Metro Station. They were tired and almost fell asleep on the train. We went home for dinner around 5:30pm. My parents were exhausted and went straight to bed!

The Romantic Road & Germany
On Sunday morning we woke up and enjoyed a delightful breakfast with Nana and Pap in the apartment. Around 9am we all piled in the mini-van. Rich drove us to Germany for a tour of the castles on the Romantic Road. We visited Wurzburg, Rothenburg and Fussen. My Dad was stationed at Ramstein Air Base 35 years ago. Also, my Mom's ancestors are from that region. We stopped and researched her ancestor who left in 1815 for the United States. It was a special return to Germany for my parents and the girls enjoyed hearing about their travels.

Wurzburg, Germany
We arrived in Wurzburg, Germany after lunch and unloaded our bags at the Hotel Wurzburger Hof. It was a lovely (yet cool) afternoon so we walked to the Würzburg Residenz, an extraordinary example of a Baroque palace. Giovanni Battista Tiepolo painted frescoes in the ceiling above the staircase in 1752 in the Imperial Hall. The Residenz was destroyed in WWII and rebuilt after the war. After our tour, we strolled through the Court Gardens and Residenz Square.

After visiting the Wurzburg Residenz and the Court Gardens, we strolled through historic Wurzburg towards the Main River. We enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant and walked over the famous Old Main Bridge while eating ice cream cones. From the bridge there were lovely views of the Fortress Marienberg.

In the morning, we enjoyed breakfast at the Hotel Wurzburger Hof. It was drizzling. So, after stocking up on umbrellas, we toured the Fortress Marienberg. The most interesting aspect of the fortress was the tower which contained an "elevator" to hide women, children and royalty in case the castle was penetrated.

Rothenburg
After touring the fortress, we drove to Rothenburg, one of Germany's best preserved medieval walled towns. It was a picturesque, charming and quaint village. We parked outside the old city walls and entered in through the main gate. The moat was spectacular to cross. After eating lunch on the main square with Nana and Papa, we toured St. Jacob's church. It contains an impressive 500-year-old Riemenschneider altarpiece, the Michelangelo of German woodcarvers. We climbed the stairs behind the organ to view the woodcarving. After touring St. Jacob's, Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed walking the wall that surrounds the old town. We enjoyed the view of the red-tiled roofs with the green valleys and Tauber river below. We had a hard time coming down! In the afternoon, we toured the Imperial City Museum in Rothenburg, founded in 1258 as a Dominican nunnery convent by the Imperial master cook Lupold of Nordenberg. We enjoyed a hot chocolate and pastry on the main plaza. Elisabeth and I enjoyed shopping in the Friese shop. Anneliese, who runs the shop, gave Elisabeth and Kate a doll for free. Thanks to Rick Steves' for the recommendation! What a magical and friendly medieval town!

Fussen
After an afternoon hot chocolate and pastry, we left Rothenburg and drove to Fussen. We arrived in Fussen in time for dinner at a local Italian restaurant. Elisabeth enjoyed her pizza with black olives, Kate enjoyed her spaghetti bolognese. We stayed at the Hotel Seespitz, just outside of Fussen. There were incredible views of the Forggensee with Füssen and the snow-capped Swiss Alps in the distance (The Forggensee is a man-made lake which was built to prevent flooding. It is the catchment area for all the melting snow in the spring. After the middle of October the lake is drained ready for the next spring melt - glad we went in the Spring!). After dinner Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed a swim in the indoor pool with Nana and Papa. The pool had floor to ceiling windows with picturesque views of the snow-capped mountains. Breathtakingly beautiful.

The next morning we enjoyed delicious German pastries before touring the famous castles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. Füssen is the highest town in Bavaria (808 m above sea level). I felt like we could touch the mountains. First, we took a horse and carriage up the hill and visited the Hohenschwangau castle. We enjoyed walking down from the castle after the tour. After a quick lunch, we took another horse and carriage up the hill to visit the Neuschwanstein castle.

Nana and Papa remembered visiting castles when they were stationed in Germany at Ramstein Air Base approximately 35 years ago. Nana and Papa met my Uncle Joe and my Uncle Dan in Germany and touring the castles. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed hearing stories of my parents adventures and of my Mom skiing moguls on Mont Blanc. What fun!

Lake Constance & Baden Baden
We arrived in Baden Baden shortly before dinner and checked into our hotel along the Oos River in the western foothills of the Black Forest. After a lovely dinner at an Italian bistro, we enjoyed a lovely stroll and retired for the evening (we were exhausted!). The next morning, after a delicious breakfast, we walked along a stream before our long drive back to Brussels.

Brugges, Belgium
Nana and Papa left on Thursday by train for an overnight in Brugges. I made a reservation for them at the Hotel Erasmus because it was centrally located near the Grand Plaza in Brugges. They enjoyed touring the Grand Plaza, riding in a carriage and eating dinner on the Grand Plaza before retiring for the evening. The next day they enjoyed the museums in Brugges and went on a boat cruise prior to catching the train back to Brussels.

Keukenhoff, Holland
On Saturday, April 17 we drove to Holland to view the tulips. We arrived at Keukenhof in the morning and enjoyed strolling around the gardens before lunch. We enjoyed climbing to the top of the windmill, gazing out over the big open fields of tulips, and listening to a troop of Hungarian singers and dancers.

We had wooden shoes made for Elisabeth and Kate. The girls picked their designs and a shoemaker, Nicole, made their shoes (Nicole is the only female shoemaker in Europe). Elisabeth and Kate wore their shoes for the remainder of the day! Nicole was quite an artist (I even had a pair made for me!). We'll put the shoes out for St. Nicholas in early December next year.

Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed the play ground at Keukenhof, especially the zip line and maze. They also enjoyed walking across a pond on "lily pads" made of stone. Rich and I helped them. Quite fun.

Petit Sablon & Brussels
On Sunday, April 18th we had a leisurely morning. After breakfast we took the 94 Tram from Herrmann Debroux to the Petit Sablon. We ate lunch at Pan Quotidien. After lunch we sampled chocolates from Whitamer and strolled through the gardens in the Petit Sablon.

They were scheduled to depart on Monday, April 19th. However, their flight was canceled due to the erupting volcano in Iceland and the volcanic ash covering Europe.

Leuven & Amsterdam
Nana and Papa's flight was rescheduled to depart on Thursday, April 22nd. In the meantime, they kept busy and enjoyed their extended stay in Europe. On Monday they took the train to Leuven to visit Erasmus University. On Tuesday, they took the train to Amsterdam for an overnight at the Hotel Rembrandt. They enjoyed visiting the Anne Frank museum and strolling through Amsterdam.