An Afternoon at Bokrijk: Socialist Solidarity Day

On Sunday we drove to visit Bokrijk, an open-air museum in eastern Belgium. There are over 120 historic buildings from all over Belgium reassembled to give visitors an overview of Belgian history. It includes a grand Renaissance Flemish town square, farmhouses, mills, craft shops, etc. Park staff demonstrate traditional activities like lace making. There are also fishing ponds, a deer park, horse-cart rides, and one of Belgium's biggest playgrounds with some amazing slides.

Predictably, we spent all of our time at the playground. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed the Viking themed playground, pony rides, g0-cart rides and the slides. It was a rainy day so we enjoyed a hot chocolate and the indoor playground in the afternoon.

Sunday was Socialist Solidarity Day at Bokrijk. Free admission!

Culture Shock?

I signed up for a seminar in June at ISB regarding transition for families moving back to the US. I want to make the transition to the US as smooth as possible for the girls (and myself!).

I experienced my first "culture shock" this week. I called the US to sign up Elisabeth and Kate for summer camps. Just talking on the phone with an attendant at one of the camps was stressful. American English, American schedules, American web site sign-up, etc. I think I must be experiencing culture shock.

Let's hope the girls have an easier time switching gears (and continents!).

Make Way for the Ducklings

Last week I went to my Ruth's house in Tervuren for a walk and tea. Ruth gave me a tour of the park behind Tervuren. As we walked we came upon a mother duck and her ducklings in the middle of the road. We escorted them to the side of the road. Later another gentleman escorted them up the road to the park gates. It reminded us of Make Way for the Ducklings by Robert McCloskey.

Whether in Tervuren Park or Woluwe Park there are plenty of gaggles of goslings swimming in the lakes, mother ducks and ducklings walking through the parks and baby rabbits hopping through the gardens. Spring is in the air.

After our walk we enjoyed a cup of tea, but I couldn't pick up my tea cup with my right hand (I've been using my left hand/arm for the last 8 months). Ruth gave me the phone number of a US trained Chiropractor in Auderghem (across the street from our apartment building). I have had two appointments with the chiropractor. Finally, today my hand has opened. It is a little stiff, but the pain in my arm is gone. I am overjoyed!

We've had a wonderful year in Brussels, but the problems with my arm have put a grey cloud over our adventures. I have pretty much lost the use of my right arm. None of the specialist doctors were able to alleviate the pain without proposing surgery, more cortisone shots, anti-inflammatory drugs, etc. So happy to be on the mend.

A Sunday in the Park

A few weeks ago we enjoyed a lovely Sunday afternoon in Auderghem. We bicycled along the bike trail on Sovereign across from Val Duchesse. We played a round of putt-putt golf with Elisabeth and Kate. Afterwards we walked to the lake. It was a picturesque afternoon with swans swimming under weeping willow trees, families picnicing on the shore, and rowboats in the lake. Rich and Elisabeth rowed us around the lake. It reminded me of the French Post-Impressionist painter Georges Seurat's A Sunday in the Park.

After venturing onto the lake, we sat at a table at the Brasserie des Etangs Mellaerts. I enjoyed a Lemon Spa (i.e. Sprite in Belgium) and Rich enjoyed a local beer. The girls played on the playground behind the restaurant. Most families were enjoying a late 3-4 hour lunch.

Brasserie des Etangs Mellaerts

Bld Souverain 275 Vorstlaan

1150 Woluwe-St. Lambert

Belgians seem to have a great life and enjoy themselves. Often restaurants are near playgrounds. The parents sit, smoke and drink while the children play on the playground, ride ponies, and jump in moon bounces.

Rich and I discussed the possibility of opening something similar in Virginia along the bike trail. But, we're not sure it would work: Americans just don't sit and enjoy a 3-4 hour meal that often. Plus, we would have a difficult time matching the quality of French cuisine in Belgium. If only we could take another year off at the Cordon Bleu in Paris....

Make Way for the Ducklings

One of Elisabeth and Kate's favorite books is Make Way for the Ducklings by Robert McCloskey. I believe it was a gift from their Aunt Polly, a native of Boston. The book was first published in 1941. It tells the story of a pair of mallard ducks who decide to raise their family on an island in the pond in Boston Public Garden, a park in the center of Boston, Massachusetts.

Last month while walking in Tervuren with my friend, Ruth, we came upon a mallard duck and her ducklings. A gentleman with a dog was carefully steering them along the rode to the entrance to Tervuren park where they could safely walk and swim in the lakes. It was quite charming!

Robert McCloskey was born in Hamilton, Ohio in 1914. On our next visit to Ohio, I think the girls would love to visit Robert McCloskey's hometown of Hamilton, Ohio. They love all of his books - especially Make Way for the Ducklings and Lentil.

De Kluis: Girl Scout Camping Day

A few weeks ago Elisabeth spent a Saturday with the Girl Scouts for Camping Day. Despite the jet lag from his flight from Houston the previous day, Rich woke up bright and early. He drove Elisabeth and her friend, Madeleine, to De Kluis. They arrived by 8:00am on a Saturday morning. Elisabeth returned around 10:00pm that night with Madeleine's parents. What a long day!

The De Kluis Youth Residence is the oldest youth stay of Flanders, the Dutch-speaking part of Belgium. In 1934 the Scouts & Guides Association of Flanders bought the old forester house "La Retraite" and enlarged the building into a foursquare Brabant farmhouse. The surrounding pastures and fallow grounds have been planted with a large variation of indigenous and exotic trees. This gives the Youth Residence De Brink its unique characteristics and an exceptional play forest.

De Kluis is situated nearby the largest mixed broad-leaved forest of Flanders: Meerdaal wood – Heverlee forest (1900 hectares). This is one of the last wooded locations in the Flanders since the last ice age. The nature reserve "de Doode Bemde" is 200 hectares large and lies 2 km away. This domain has magnificent nature surroundings and is situated in the middle of Belgium, just on the linguistic frontier.

De Kluis

http://www.hopper.be/jeugdverblijf/de-kluis

Boudewijn Seapark in Brugges

A few weeks ago we drove to the Boudewijn Seapark in Brugges. We were pleasantly surprised to discover an old-fashioned theme park. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed driving old-fashioned Ford Model Ts and riding on the Mississippi Queen, the train around the park, the Ferris Wheel, and the Orca roller coaster. They also enjoyed watching a sea lion show and a dolphin show.

Unlike the United States, the park was remarkably uncrowded. We waited in short lines (if at all!). I think their favorite was driving the Ford Model T. Rich and I sat in the back seat of the car while the girls pretended to drive us to college!

Boudewijn Seapark

www.boudewijnseapark.be/

What is a Mall?

During our drive home from Normandy, we stopped at a McDonald's just north of Paris. The McDonald's was in a mall. As we parked the car and walked towards the McDonald's, Elisabeth asked, "What are all these stores doing in the same building?" Rich and I suppressed our laughter and explained malls and how they are organized.

Malls do not really exist in Brussels. There is only one that I know of in Brussels in Woluwe St. Pierre. I go there occasionally, but the girls like the small shops like L'Atelier de Gepeto in Boisfort (similar to Doodlehoppers in Falls Church).

A Bicycle Built for Two (or three or four!)

Growing up in Dayton, Ohio I enjoyed bicycling with my family. We were somewhat of a novelty in the 1980s. My parents were very athletic and loved the outdoors and expected the same from their children. When all the kids drove mopeds to swim practice, we bicycled to Dayton Country Club at 7:00am every morning during the summer (often with our tennis rackets tucked into our backpacks). When others drove to family reunions, we rode our bicycles to Hills & Dales Park or our Great Aunt Ann and Uncle Carl's in Bellbrook, Ohio. We all had tall orange flags on the back of our bikes for safety. It was the late 1970's so we didn't wear helmets.

Prior to my pregnancy with Kate, I would bicycle with Elisabeth on the bike trails in Virginia. I had a child's seat installed on the back of my bicycle. Elisabeth loved to put on her helmet and ride in the seat around the cul-de-sac. Once I had two small toddlers I assumed that my bicycling days were over: I just couldn't imagine having two toddlers on my bike!

We have observed several different versions of a bicycle built for two (or three or four!) in Belgium. First, there was the bike with the wheelbarrow attached to the front in the Netherlands. Parents bicycle with four or five small children in the wheelbarrow attached in front. Second, there was the bicycle with the "sidecar" in Normandy, France. An adult rode the bicycle and a child sat in the sidecar. Finally, there was the bike with the child's seat on the handlebars. I found it amazing that parents can balance their children on their handlebars! One of Kate's classmates at BEPS bicycles with her family to school every day in a bicycle with a wheelbarrow in front. What fun! I hope we can take a ride on one before we leave.

Elisabeth and Kate enjoy their bikes. We bought their bikes in Tervuren prior to "No Car Day" in Brussels in September 2009. The girls loved biking in the streets of Brussels that day. We took off Elisabeth's training wheels last summer when she was 5 1/2. Kate still has training wheels, but is anxious to take them off soon in Brussels (Rich and I are not sure if we're ready!).

Bicycles are a way of life here in Belgium. Children in Brussels learn to bicycle at a very young age. Often we see one or two year olds on bikes without training wheels! And, they don't wear helmets here (although helmets are required for riding horses in Belgium!). At almost every traffic circle bicycles are available to rent. People bicycle to work and school in rain, sleet or snow. They wear rain coats and rain pants or large rain ponchos over their bikes to stay dry in the rain. What an incredibly green way to commute!

Many do not wear helmets while they bike. A Belgian parent told me not to wear a helmet when I bike in Brussels. She said that cars would think I was a very serious biker and not give me as much room.

Normandy 2010

On Wednesday, May 12, 2010 Rich met us at ISB, Elisabeth's school. From ISB we drove our little silver C4 Citroen to Bazouges La Perouse, near Le Mont St. Michel in France. I drove while Rich worked on his blackberry and participated in conference calls. Elisabeth & Kate were helpful and stayed quiet during the conference calls (they were tired from playing on the playground!). Shortly after crossing over the border into France, we stopped at the same "Potterybarnish" truck stop as in February for dinner. Great food and comfy atmosphere on the road!

As we drove to Bazouges La Perouse, the picturesque Normandy countryside unfolded: the cows, sheep and horses grazing, the green grass swaying in the wind, and the pink sun setting in the distance. While the sun was setting I drove over the Pont de Normandie, a cable-stayed road bridge that spans the river Seine linking Le Havre to Honfleur in Normandy. There was no other place we

wanted to be in the world. It was a wonderful start to our adventure!

Bazouges La Perouse, France

We arrived at our rental house in Bazouges La Perouse late that evening in France. Rich carried the girls inside. While I put them to bed Rich unpacked the car. The house was so charming. It reminded me of my grandmother's in St. Anthony, Oh

io: an old turn of the century house with large windows and old-fashioned shutters. On the inside it had hardwood floors, an old farm table with chairs, and cozy couches surrounding a fireplace.

On Thursday morning we awoke to the church bells ringing in the distance. The girls were playing quietly in Kate's room. The owners had converted the fireplace to a "barn" with animals, fences, and farm equipment. What a surprise for the girls to have such wonderful toys! And, what a treat for us to catch up on our sleep and reading while they played! Rich made breakfast in the cozy kitchen and we enjoyed a delightful breakfast. We had planned to leave by 8:00am to visit Le Mont St. Michel that morning, but we didn't leave the house until 9:30am.

Bazouges la Perouse

http://www.bazouges.com/versionanglaise/information/information.htm

Le Mont St. Michel

We drove through the countryside in Normandy to Le Mont St. Michel, a rocky tidal island. During the Hundred Years' War the English made repeated assaults on the island, but were unable to seize it due to the abbey's improved fortifications. Le Mont Saint-Michel was previously connected to the mainland via a thin natural land bridge which is now a man-made causeway with expanded parking.

We arrived at low tide, parked the car, explored the beach and walked through the city gates. We strolled through the narrow streets ascending to the the monastery of Le Mont-Saint-Michel. The narrow streets were crowded. After touring the monastery we walked down to the city gates. We ate lunch at La Mere Poulard. La Mere Poulard is known for delicious omelets. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed watching the chefs in the old-fashioned kitchen making the omelets.

We returned to Bazouges La Perouse for a quiet afternoon at home. Elisabeth and Kate played with the toys in their room and in the yard. They pretended to be chefs at a restaurant. After a quick snack at the house, we drove to the beach at Cancale. As walked along the pier, collected seashells, skipped stones, and rode the merry-go-round. We ate dinner at a restaurant on the pier and watched the the tide.

Omaha Beach, Bayeux and Rouen

On Friday we enjoyed a lovely breakfast. Rich took the girls for a walk to the local boulangerie while I finished packing. Tarte au citron s'il vous plait. What delicious pastries! We will miss them! After savoring the pastries we drove to Omaha Beach. We walked along the peer, read about WWII and the American troops at Omaha Beach, and rode the merry-go-round. It was a beautiful day so we bought lunch and sat along the waterfront for lunch. Unfortunately, there were long lines for the museum at Omaha Beach so we did not go into the museum (tough with a 4 year old!).

After lunch we drove to Bayeux, France, a lovely medieval town. Bayeux was the first city in France to be liberated during the Battle of Normandy. The buildings in Bayeux were virtually untouched during the Battle of Normandy (the German forces were fully involved in defending Caen from the Allies). We parked the car and walked to the Tapisserie de la Reine Mathilde Museum to see the Bayeux tapestry, listed as a “Memory of the World” by UNESCO. It is an embroidery, 70 metres long, made in the 11th century. The Bayeux Tapestry celebrates the conquest of England by William, Duke of Normandy. The linen canvas was embroidered by monks in the south of England after the Battle of Hastings on October 14th, 1066. Legendary animals, ships, Vikings, Norman and Saxon cavalries illustrate the exploits of William and his opponent Harold, another pretender to the throne of England.

Elisabeth and Kate were quite impressed with their first audioguide at a museum! Rich and I listened to the adult version. After the tour we all agreed that it was a worth it! After viewing the tapestry, we walked to the Bayeux Cathedral. Elisabeth and Kate liked the Romanesque Church underneath the cathedral. The stars on the ceiling reminded the girls of St. Peters in Rome.

We drove from Bayeux to Rouen, we checked into our hotel and walked along the Seine to the main square where Joan of Arc was executed. We enjoyed dinner on the square around 5pm. Unfortunately, La Coronne, a restaurant recommended by Julia Child, did not open until 7pm. After dinner we walked to the cathedral in Rouen. Monet painted it often and we felt that it was important to see before visiting Monet's house and garden the following day.

Giverny, France & Monet's Garden

On Saturday we enjoyed a lovely breakfast at our hotel in Rouen. After breakfast we walked with the girls along the Seine to a play ground on the river. We played at the park and enjoyed the morning along the Seine in Rouen. Later that morning we drove to Giverny. After walking through Giverny we toured the Musee des Inmpresionistes. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed their audio guides. We ate lunch at the museum's cafe.

After lunch we walked to the Monet House and Garden. Elisabeth and Kate sat on benches under lilac bushes and sketched flowers and bridges. They imitated the other artists painting in the gardens. Everything was in bloom. The girls enjoyed the Japanese bridges and the butterflies.

We first read about Monet's Garden in Linnea in Monet's Garden at the Mary Riley Stiles Library in Falls Church, Virginia. Linnea and her elderly friend Mr. Bloom travel to Paris and visit Monet's home in Giverny. The book is filled with airy, light-filled watercolors showing Linnea in Monet's house in Giverny. I think Elisabeth and Kate felt like Linnea that Saturday in Giverny. Next time they want to bring their easels and watercolors!

After a final leisurely stroll through Monet's garden, we left around 4:30pm and drove home to Brussels. We stopped at McDonald's outside of Paris. After dinner the girls fell asleep in the car and we arrived home later that evening.

Is that another scarf?

When I was a teenager my oldest sister returned from her junior year abroad at the Sorbonne in Paris, France. With her she brought lots of scarves. They might have been very stylish in France, but in conservative Dayton, Ohio where we grew up they were avant-garde. Papagallo's was the place to shop in Dayton: monogrammed sweaters, argyle socks, pleated skirts, etc. I wasn't enamored with the scarves as a teenager and was quite happy with my preppy existence.

Twenty years later I am living in Brussels and I have developed a scarf obsession. I found my most recent scarf at Port Stephanie while I was walking to the Grand Plaza to fix Elisabeth's violin last week. It was mid-May and I was wearing my grey winter coat. It had just started to rain - typical of Brussels. I still had quite a long walk ahead (and the tram ride back to pick up Kate from school at BEPS). I saw a splash of pink pastels in the window. I couldn't resist. It was just what I needed on a cold, wet and rainy day in May: color!

I didn't hide my purchase. I wore it as a badge of honor: Spring had finally come to Brussels! Rich came home from work that night and said, "Is that another scarf?" I understand his concern as I've bought more scarves than anything else in Brussels. However, in my defense, the scarves are inexpensive. Moreover, it is just bone chilling cold and damp here in Brussels! Scarves provide that extra layer of warmth and protection from the cold whether I am indoors or out.

It's quite possible that my scarves will sit on a shelf in my closet in Falls Church, Virginia for the next twenty years. They are a bit avant-garde for Falls Church City, Virginia. Perhaps in a few months after our return Elisabeth and Kate will enjoy them for dress-up....

Going Grey in Brussels...Naturally

Rich and I noticed our first grey hairs. Of course, Rich's grey gives him a more distinguished air. He is still youthful, just a touch of grey at the temples (or it could just be blond?).

As for me, I have highlighted my hair for the last 20 years. It is likely that my grey has been there for awhile, but I never noticed (until Rich pointed it out!). I've stopped highlighting my hair in Brussels: I am too scared of the pink, purple and red streaks. The question is: what is my natural hair color? It was a strawberry blond before I began swimming competitively when I was six years old. But, it is much darker now. Let's hope I don't go all grey before our return this summer...

Normandy 2010

We returned from Normandy late Saturday night. What a wonderful vacation! Rich created a slide show of our vacation in Normandy before he left yesterday for Houston via Paris. What fun! Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed watching the Normandy slide show this morning before breakfast. I am enjoying the slide show too!

Root Canal on the Roads: Alternatives to the Automobile

During the week I spend a minimum of three (3) hours in the car per day. I drive Rich to the Metro, Elisabeth to ISB and Kate to BEPS in my little C4 Citroen. This morning's commute felt like a root canal. I am not sure which was the most grating on my nerves: the construction (they are extending the #94 tram line near our apartment), the motorcycles and scooters, the trams, the traffic circle in Boisfort, the bicycles, or the small car technology.

After dropping off Kate this morning, I parked the car and walked. It took me longer to do my errands. I walked to the Grand Plaza to fix Elisabeth's violin at Azzato. I stopped at the grocery on Avenue Louise for much needed orange juice, fresh bread and dinner. Although my grocery bags broke as I was walking back to the car, I was SOOOOO happy not to be in the car. I plan to do the same tomorrow: put away my car keys and walk to the Grand Plaza to pick up Elisabeth's violin for her lesson at 2pm.

Driving on the Tram Tracks?

Driving on the tram tracks is clear and easy way to get around the congestion and construction. I have seen several cars driving on the tram tracks in Brussels. But, I've also heard of their collisions (I saw a bus collide with a tram over the weekend!). Not really my style as I would like all of us to get to school or work in one piece.

Bus or Tram?

Another alternative is to take the bus or tram to school. The cost of the school bus is just too much. In order to ride the public bus system we would first have to get through the construction outside of our apartment. Also, the buses don't run directly to ISB or BEPS (I will check the bus schedule again for switches).

The tram is probably the best option, but is not a viable option at this point. They are extending the #94 Tram from Hermann-Debroux to Chaussee de Tervuran. It is under construction on Sovereign just outside our apartment. The tram starts running July 1 when we are scheduled to leave!

The Ring

My best option at this point is to find a different route. Tomorrow Rich thinks I should try the Ring, a superhighway around the city of Brussels. It is in the opposite direction of our commute, but perhaps worth a shot.

Mother's Day in Belgium

Belgians do not celebrate Mother's Day. However, Rich, Elisabeth and Kate made their own celebration for me. First, the girls woke up and played quietly. I was able to sleep in until 7:50am on Sunday morning! They made a delicious breakfast with Rich and we all went to church at the IPC this morning. We brought snacks for the reception afterwards and the girls helped me set up the snacks. I had a special morning with Kate - I helped with Kate's preschool Sunday School class. It was nice to see Kate so grown up!

After church we drove through the lovely Belgian countryside to La Maison Basse, a lovely restaurant with extensive well-manicured grounds. Elisabeth and Kate walked over bridges and under bridges to the lovely restaurant surrounded by peaceful ponds. There was a fireplace in the dining area. The chef cooked Rich's steak and my tuna in the fireplace. For dessert Elisabeth and Kate ate chocolate mousse (they called it pudding!), I ordered creme brulee and Rich ordered fresh strawberries with lemon.

La Maison Basse

http://www.la-maison-basse.be/

After lunch we drove to Villers Ville, a former monastery now in ruins. We met a British photographer, Trevor Waldron, for a family photo shoot arranged through the American Women's Club of Brussels (AWCB) - a special gift for me, Rich's Mom and my Mom. We enjoyed walking around the grounds of Villers Ville from 2-3pm while Mr. Waldron took photos. We can't wait to see the photos!

We weren't ready to go home so we drove to Halle, Belgium to hike through the forest to see the bluebells. Several families told us about the bluebells and highly recommended visiting Halle. Elisabeth and Kate enjoyed running through the sea of bluebells in Halle. There are lovely trails and a beautiful pine forest.

So glad that Rich was able to be in Belgium to help me celebrate Mother's Day!

Tee-ball in Brussels: The First Hit of the Game

Rich coached Elisabeth's tee-ball team, the Red Sox, this afternoon. Elisabeth hit the first hit of the game. She played first base and then moved to third base. After the game she climbed trees with her friends! She was all smiles this afternoon when she came home.

A Chocolate Factory in Brussels: Planet Chocolat

Elisabeth recently completed reading Charlie and the Chocolate Factory by Roald Dahl. To celebrate, we visited an actual chocolate factory in Brussels, Planet Chocolat. Planet Chocolat is an "avant-garde" chocolate manufacturer working in the tradition of the past. Planet Chocolat produces the highest quality hand-made chocolate with 100% pure cocoa butter.

At 4pm on Saturday afternoon we enjoyed a demonstration on the history and manufacture of chocolates, tasting a variety of chocolates and a delicious hot chocolate! Elisabeth and Kate were remarkably well behaved: if they answered a question correctly, the demonstrator gave them a chocolate (or two!).

After the tour we celebrated with dinner on the Grand Plaza. Way to go Elisabeth! Next up: Charlie and the Great Glass Elevator.

The Final Countdown: Eight More Weeks

We have approximately eight more weeks in Brussels. Kate's last day of school is June 30th. We will stay through the end of the school year for the girls. We will fly across the pond shortly thereafter. I am busy packing up, trying to sell a few things from IKEA (easel, etc. for the playroom) and give away other things.

Rich is commuting back and forth from DC to Brussels during May and June.

A busy two months ahead, but all in all a wonderful year.

Elisabeth: Our Toothless Wonder

Elisabeth lost her first front tooth last week. It was very loose, barely hanging on. Kate provided some assistance and knocked it out while wrestling Elisabeth. Elisabeth was upset, but happy to have the tooth fairy visit! Elisabeth spent her 6 Euro from the tooth ferry at L'atelier de Gepetto, a toy store in Middelbourg near Boisfort in Brussels. Elisabeth shared her money with Kate because she was so helpful! They both bought Baba Papa dolls, one pink and one green.

I anticipate Elisabeth will lose the other tooth later this week...

April in Rome, Italy

In 1998 I travelled to Rome to visit my sister Kathy and her husband, Tim. Kathy and Tim were taking a year off ("YO"). They spent their first six months in France and travelled around the Mediterranean for the next six months. I met up with them in Rome. What a fun week with Kathy and Tim and their friends, TC and Katie! Returning to Rome 12 years later, I was excited to be the tour guide for Rich and my daughters, Elisabeth & Kate.

The Vatican City: The Vatican Museum & Gardens, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica

We rented a wonderful and cozy apartment in Campo de' Fiori. My sister, Caroline, recommended that we stay in Campo de' Fiori in Rome (Caroline studied in Rome and her husband is Italian). We arrived late on a Thursday evening. Elisabeth and Kate fell asleep in the cab from the airport. While I put the girls to bed in the apartment, Rich walked to a local market and bought groceries for the weekend.

On Friday morning Rich made a wonderful breakfast with eggs, sausage, and toast. Elisabeth and Kate were in heaven. They peeked through the curtains of the apartment at the square below. Elisabeth announced that there was a pizza parlor outside (it read "Piazza...." on the corner of the building). She asked if we could go there for dinner. So cute!

The weather was glorious (a nice break from Brussels). We left the apartment around 9am and walked across the Tiber River to the Vatican. I bought tickets to tour the Vatican Museum in advance. Our tickets were for 10am. We arrived in plenty of time. Elisabeth and Kate are great walkers! I think Elisabeth and Kate liked the Egyptian rooms, especially the mummies. Elisabeth also enjoyed the pottery from Jerusalem and the Middle East. (Kate asked, "When will we go to Jerusalem and see where Jesus lived?"). Elisabeth and Kate were awestruck by the opulence of the galleries and ceilings in the Vatican Museum, especially the ancient tapestry maps. They seemed to recognized continents.

We were only half way through the museum and they were getting tired. So we took a shortcut through the galleries to the Sistine Chapel (it was 11:00am and they were ready for lunch!). We enjoyed some quiet time in the Sistine Chapel. Elisabeth wants to be an artist when she grows up. Her art teacher recommended that we show her Michelangelo's fresco in the Sistine Chapel. The girls found some of the stories of the bible in the ceiling (they found the story of Adam and Eve first). After we left the Sistine Chapel we decided not to walk up around the dome (we were tired). We toured St. Peter's and the girls looked at the stars painted in the dome by Michelangelo. Elisabeth and Kate just stood and gazed above at the stars. It was hard to pull them away.

We left St. Peter's Basilica and headed straight for lunch along the avenue leading towards St. Peter's Square. We ate outside on the terrace between St. Peter's Basilica and the Castel Sant' Angelo. During lunch Elisabeth drew a picture of Rome and wrote "Roma: The Best City in the World." After lunch we took a carriage ride from St. Peter's Square to the Castel Sant' Angelo, Piazza Navona (where we got out of the carriage and looked at the ruins of the original racetrack built by Domitian), the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain. During the carriage ride, the horse would put is head into people's cars to say hello (they were friends of the driver!). A very happy horse!

Piazza di Spagna (The Spanish Steps)

We ate a gelato in St. Peter's Square after the carriage ride and began our walk to the Spanish Steps. We walked from St. Peter's Square to the Castel Sant' Angelo, across the Bridge of Angels over the Tiber River, continued along a shaded sidewalk along the Tiber River and finally turned right on V. Condotti towards the Spanish Steps. What great walkers!

When we turned onto V. Condotti, the girls were in awe. The crowds, the flowers, the fountain and steps in the distance were shining in the afternoon sunlight. Elisabeth and Kate sat next to the fountain. They threw in coins to make a wish (I'm glad we brought a lot of coins - there are so many fountains in Rome!). We walked up to the top of the Spanish Steps and bought a lemon citron. We sat on the steps and drank the lemon citron and enjoyed the view over the square below.

From the Spanish Steps we decided to "walk across Rome" - Rick Steves' had proposed it as a "Night Walk" - however, with two young children in tow, we doubted we would stay up late! Our next stop: the Trevi Fountain.

The Trevi Fountain

After the Spanish Steps, we walked to the Trevi Fountain, a Baroque fountain created by Nicola Salvi. We had a map, but didn't need it. We just followed the tour groups coming from the opposite direction. As we approached Elisabeth and Kate could hear the water splashing. Again, Elisabeth and Kate were amazed. They threw coins into the Trevi Fountain (and got a little wet). Fortunately, they didn't fall in!

Piazza Colonna & Piazza Capranica

We crossed the Via del Corso and came upon the Piazza Colonna, a quiet and grand square with a column honoring Marcus Aurelius. There was a smaller fountain. Elisabeth and Kate splashed each other (they didn't fall in!). We continued on our walk to the Piazza Capranica, another square with an Egyptian obelisk which was taken by Augustus after his victory in Egypt over Cleopatra and Marc Antony.

The Pantheon

We continued our walk towards the Pantheon through a narrow street. With each step the Pantheon came into view. It is an impressive structure, dominating the square. Half of it was covered in scaffolding and it was crowded so we decided to save it for early the next morning.

Plaza Navona

We continued our walk to the Piazza Navona. I think that they recognized the square and Domitian ruins from our carriage ride earlier in the day. Elisabeth and Kate watched the artists paint and the musicians play. They danced with Rich to the music and sat near the Bernini fountain.

Campo de' Fiori

We ended our evening at Campo de' Fiori, a "field of flowers". We ate dinner at a restaurant on the square. We found that at 5pm Campo de' Fiori was a wonderful place to eat dinner with a family. After dinner, the girls played around the square.

Capitol Hill, The Forum and The Colosseum

For Saturday I bought tickets to The Colosseum in advance for 10:00am Saturday morning. After we ate breakfast in our apartment, we walked from Campo de' Fiori to The Colosseum. The girls were surprised to turn the corner and see the Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II. Elisabeth and Kate were the first to spot the Colosseum in the distance!

The Colosseum was impressive. Luckily, we had advance tickets so we avoided hours in line. We climbed the steps to the top of the Colosseum. Elisabeth took pictures with her camera. After the Colosseum, we walked by the Arch of Constantine to enter the gates for The Forum and The Palatine Hill (another long line that we avoided!). We ate snack on some fallen columns in The Palatine Hill (no falls or skinned knees!). Elisabeth and Kate walked through The Forum. After walking past the Column of Trajan, Elisabeth and Kate found a pink scooter (the last item on our scavenger hunt!). They were so excited. It was pink with a butterfly and a heart. We took a few pictures of the girls with the scooter before lunch.

The Villa Borghese Gardens

After lunch we took a cab from The Forum to the Villa Borghese Gardens. What an amazing garden! Puppet shows, cafes, galleries, pony rides, choo-choo trains, play grounds, etc. The perfect place for a family in Rome! First, we rented a bicycle cart for a family of four. Rich and I (mainly Rich) bicycled the girls around the gardens for an hour. At one point we stopped and Elisabeth and Kate rode ponies through the gardens. Unfortunately, the battery died at the end so we really had to pedal to return the bicycle! After returning the bike cart, we ate a gelato (we averaged two gelatos a day in Rome!). Rather than take a cab home, we walked through the Villa Borghese Gardens to the Spanish Steps. We were a little lost at times, but we muffled through to discover a merry-go-round for the girls.

The Long Walk Home

After our long afternoon trek through the Villa Borghese gardens, we ate a gelato on the Spanish Steps of the Piazza di Spagna. We sat on the steps and enjoyed the beautiful weather. By now we knew our way around Rome. Elisabeth served as our "tour guide" and led us from the Trevi Fountain to Campo de' Fiori! We ate a fantastic dinner at another restaurant on the square. Elisabeth and Kate watched the street performers before we walked home for the evening.

The Pantheon: A Challenging Morning

On Sunday morning Rich, Elisabeth & Kate walked to a local pastry shop for breakfast while I finished packing. I left the apartment shortly after them to catch up, but I couldn't figure out how to get out of the building. There were huge doors and Rich had the keys. I sat inside the lovely and peaceful courtyard of our building for about 45 minutes. Finally, someone came and opened the doors (later I found out there was a button to open the doors - how did I miss it?). Luckily, Rich, Elisabeth and Kate were walking back to the apartment and Kate spotted me! Yeah!

We had saved the Pantheon for last morning, but the Pantheon was scheduled to close at 10:30am for a service. We walked from Campo de' Fiori to the Pantheon only to find that it was closed to the public due to a Reunification ceremony of Rome until 1pm. We were very disappointed. While we tried to regroup, we ate our delicious pastries on the steps. Elisabeth and Kate jumped over the ancient boulders. And, Rich treated us to a final carriage ride around Rome. The girls favorite was the Trevi Fountain and they threw in our remaining coins to ensure their return!

I can't describe how fantastic and wonderful it was to live in Rome for a weekend in Campo de' Fiori. But, we were glad to come home to Brussels. The girls played quietly in the afternoon on Sunday with their blocks while Rich made dinner and I unpacked (and started laundry!). Elisabeth and Kate built a very big play ground and church with their blocks. I love that they build something new and different after each trip.

I wish we could take them to Florence and Sienna like my sister took me. Perhaps we'll return in a few years....