Kate and the Natural Sciences Museum - Brussels

Kate and Elisabeth attend different international schools in Brussels. Each school is perfect for each. The challenge for me is that the schools have different vacation schedules.

Last Friday Kate did not have school. She likes to growl a lot and pretend she is an animal so I decided to take her to the Natural Sciences Museum in Brussels. A fun morning outing and special time with Kate. We dropped off Elisabeth at school and then typed in the museum's address into the GPS and off we went.

Not too difficult to find. We took Chaussee de Wavre north towards Brussels. The Museum backs up to Parc Leopold, as well as the Solvay Library and EU Parliament buildings.

It was a drizzly morning. We spent the morning inside the museum. Exciting for Kate to see the dinosaurs. The best part was when Kate took off her shoes and climbed into a sand box to "dig for dinosaurs" - an incredible on-site paleontology and geology laboratory for children.

The new gallery is the largest dinosaur gallery in Europe. It contains the famous iguanodons of Bernissart as well as other dinosaur fossils. She was also quite interested in the dinosaur egg fossils too.

I was fascinated by the architecture of the new dinosaur wing of the museum: incredible circular staircases, vaulted ceilings and just the vastness of the new wing. It appeared to me that the new wing could have been an old department store similar to those in Chicago. I will need to research...

Natural Sciences Museum - Brussels

http://www.naturalsciences.be/museum

Sunday Afternoon at the Boisfort Market

Around Brussels there are lots of neighborhoods. Each has a distinct personality and many have their own Farmer's Market. One of our favorite Farmer's Market is in Boisfort.

Every Sunday after church we drive to the Boisfort Farmer's Market, rain or shine. We buy lunch at the market. Our favorites are the ribs or Thai food. The girls play outside on the playground: a nice play structure in the shape of a train. And, we buy Sunday dinner: usually chicken, potatoes and green beans (although sometimes we buy the ribs). We miss DC barbecue!

There is an incredible array of flower stands. I like the tulips. Elisabeth has her favorite t0o - sometimes we buy flowers and take to church for the altar. The girls love it!

The Boisfort Farmer's Market is about a 30 minute walk home to our apartment along Sovereign. One day Rich dropped me off and took the girls to a birthday party. I enjoyed strolling through the Farmer's Market and walked home. It was a beautiful autumn day.

This weekend we met friends at the Farmer's Market for lunch. A cloudy day, but the rain held off and the kids enjoyed playing on the playground. They pretended to be archaeologists digging in the ground for artifacts. They claimed to find a dinosaur and invited us over to look. They had traced the skeleton with a stick - very clever paleontologists! Overall a lovely Sunday afternoon outside.

A Visit to Lille, France

A friend of Elisabeth's told us about the Christmas Market in Lille, France. An incredibly rainy morning on Saturday so we hopped in the car and drove an hour southwest to the border of Belgium and France. It was a crisp and cool day for late November, but we enjoyed the blue skies!

Lille is the fourth largest city in France and has a fabulous Grand Place. We parked near the Grand Place in a large underground parking garage. We walked to the Grand Place and turned the corner to see an incredibly tall ferris wheel! The girls were amazed! The ferris wheel was in the middle of the Grand Place and a North Pole village. We rode the ferris wheel. Rich and I were a little scared! Incredible views of the city though. Fortunately, we noticed what looked like Lille's Christmas Market a few blocks away. After riding the ferris wheel we ate lunch at a small modern cafe on a corner of the Grand Place in Lille.

After lunch we bought roasted chestnuts on the street and walked to the Christmas Market. So much fun to see the local crafts from different regions around France. Rich took the girls to buy some food while I walked around the market. They enjoyed drinking hot chocolate and eating treats!

Lille, France

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lille_OSC

Chalet Robinson & the Bois de la Cambre

We met friends of Kate's from BEPS for brunch last Saturday at the Chalet Robinson in the Bois de la Cambre. It was an absolutely beautiful day with blue skies, green grass, and rolling hills The temperature was in the mid-sixties - very warm for Brussels in November. Brussels is known as one of the greenest cities in Europe with extensive woods and green space. For me, the hidden gem is the Bois de la Cambre.

We arrived early at 11am to play. The Chalet Robinson is located in the center of the Bois de la Cambre and opens at noon. At noon we took the ferry over the lake to the island. The boat ride is one Euro for adults, free for kids. Since it was early November we ate lunch inside (make sure you make a reservation!). I ordered the sole which was excellent and Rich ordered a steak. Kate and Elisabeth ordered hamburgers and fries (with a side order of broccoli per Mom and Dad).

After lunch we looked at the bunny rabbits in their cages on the island. The kids enjoyed playing tag on the nice green lawn. Then we rented a row boat on the lake. Elisabeth took us for a ride in the row boat on the lake around the Chalet Robinson. She had a little help from her Dad: It was a windy day!

An incredibly beautiful and ideal Saturday in Brussels. So nice to spend it with family and friends. Definitely on our "To Do" list for visitors to Brussels!

Chalet Robinson

http://www.chaletrobinson.be/

The Tooth Fairy

Elisabeth lost her first tooth today while brushing her teeth before bed. Such an exciting evening! According to Elisabeth's friends in Brussels, the tooth fairy is a mouse who brings money and toys.

Unfortunately, we couldn't find Elisabeth's tooth fairy pillow tonight. We wrapped the tooth in tissue paper and put it under her pillow.

I think the tooth fairy mouse will bring her a 50 cent piece (as well as other treats!). I packed them in August - let's hope I can find them!

Zebra Crossings: Parc Leopold and The European Quarter of Brussels

Kate attends BEPS, the Brussels English Primary School, in Brussels. The last few weeks Kate's class focused on transportation. They went on a field trip to look at different types of automobiles, rescue vehicles and stop lights. They practiced crossing the street at "zebra crossings" too. Kate refers to crosswalks as "zebra crossings" now. Several of her teacher's have British accents so when Kate says "zebra crossings" she uses a British accent too.

It has been difficult to cross the "zebra crossings" recently with Elisabeth and Kate. Usually, I hold one hand of each. However, I've been experiencing a lot of pain in my right hand, arm and shoulder so it is hard for me to hold their hand in my right hand. Several times I've lost feeling and strength in my right hand (for example, I couldn't pull on the sleeve of my sweater one morning, hold my hairbrush or hold the telephone in my right hand without experiencing pain). I think what I miss the most is holding hands with both the girls when we use the zebra crossing.

I have a doctor's appointment tomorrow with a rheumatologist to check my hand, shoulder and arm. The office is near Parc Leopold, a public park in the European Quarter of Brussels, as well as the seat of the European Union Parliament. It is the former site of the Royal Zoological Garden (Jardin Royal de Zoologie) in Brussels. Many rare trees and birds still in the area. I'm looking forward to a nice walk after my apartment.

With the current health care debate in the United States I am interested to see how the European health care system differs. Part of me hopes for a short appointment so that I can explore the gardens. The other part of me doesn't care how long the appointment takes - I would just like to have feeling back in my arm and be able to hold hands with Kate and Elisabeth when we cross the zebra crossings.

Elisabeth's First Article

We gave each of the girls a diary before our move to Brussels. Unfortunately, they lost the key to their journals a few weeks ago. We found the keys today. We tied a ribbon to each key, a blue ribbon for Elisabeth's and a yellow ribbon for Kate's.

Elisabeth (age 6) wrote her first article today:

"Nov. the 22 2009: To Daddy, Ardikl of the Day

Go up the Ipha Taur. It's so coll! You can sta for diner. Here is the Iphel Taur (arrow to her drawing of the Eiffel Tour - a pretty good/accurate drawing). Go up Dsember 26 Th. Evrey awr it lithes up. New ardickl! Sine up now! Sine your name (arrow to line to sign your name).

From Elisabeth."

Elisabeth said she is planning to write an article every day in her journal. She was glad she found the key. She put her journal on the table next to her Dad's seat so that he could read it in the morning.

Her Own Horse & Carriage

Travel with two young children is not easy. We did not bring a stroller to Brussels. We take every opportunity to have the girls walk (our key to a good night sleep). We keep the girls up from 7am until 7pm. We look for boat rides, carriage rides, bus rides, etc. while travelling - anything to give them a rest, but somehow keep going (and not spend the whole afternoon in a hotel room while napping).

Our first carriage ride was in Antwerp in August. We rode a double-decker trolley pulled by four incredibly strong horses. Our next carriage ride was more traditional: a small carriage in Ghent. Our driver was a woman and wore a beautiful hat with a ribbon. Our last carriage ride was in Brugges where we ate chocolates from Dumon, a local chocolatier, in the carriage. In each instance it was just what we all needed: a break from the walking, an English speaking tour guide and a chance to have a light snack. The girls always give an apple to the driver for the horse after our ride (I wish we could give them more). Likewise, they are concerned about the horse's well being, especially when the horse is out in the rain.

Elisabeth and Kate love horses, especially Elisabeth. She said that she wants to have her own horse and carriage when she grows up. She is asking to take riding lessons (do we say yes?). We read Black Beauty together this past summer. Elisabeth is currently reading Meghan's Mischief. As a first step, we're considering visiting a stable with her in Hoeilaart, a Flemish suburb of Brussels.

Villers Abbey and the Abbey of Maredsous

In mid-November we drove south to Wallonia, the southern region of Belgium which is predominantly a French speaking region. Wallonia is rich in iron and coal. Prior to WWII, Wallonia was the more prosperous half of Belgium. Wallonia was the first fully industrialized area in continental Europe and second only to the United Kingdom in the 19th century.

The Abbey of Maredsous

First, we visited The Abbey of Maredsous near Nemur. We heard that the bakery and cheese factory at Maredsous were quite good. Plus, it had a terrific playground with a zip line and extensive grounds to hike.

We were disappointed in Maredsous. Visitors were not allowed to tour the Abbey (except for the cafeteria, gift shop and church). The church was built recently in the 1800s (we wanted to see ruins and history!). Also, Maredsous seemed very commercial (it specialized in selling cheese and beer). There was a one hour tour of the Maredsous grounds, but the tour didn't start for another hour and was not in English.

The Villers Abbey

After lunch at Maredsous, we drove North towards Brussels. The highlight of our afternoon was visiting The Villers Abbey. According to its history, in 1146 twelve Cistercian monks and three lay brothers from Clairvaux came to Villers in order to establish the abbey on land granted them by Gauthier de Marbais. After establishing several preliminary sites (Villers I and Villers II), work was finally undertaken in the 13th century to build the current site. The choir was constructed by 1217, the crypt by 1240 and the refectory by 1267. The church itself took seventy years to build and was completed by the end of the century.

History of the Villers Abbey ruins

During this period, the abbey reached the height of its fame and importance. Contemporary accounts suggest that roughly 100 monks and 300 lay brothers resided within its walls. The lands attached to the abbey also expanded considerably, reaching some 100 km² of woods, fields and pasturage.

Decline set in during the 16th century, tied to the larger troubles of the Low Countries. Spanish "tercios", during the campaign of 1544, did considerable damage to the church and cloister, both of which were partially restored in 1587.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, the abbey's fortunes continued to diminish. The number of monks and the abbey's wealth dwindled and it was finally abandoned in 1796 in the wake of the French Revolution.

Further degradation to the site occurred in 1855 when the railway line between Leuven and Charleroi passed through the old abbatial grounds.

In 1893, the Belgian state purchased the site and launched a conservation effort. Classed as an official historic site in 1973, the abbey has subsequently enjoyed considerable restoration, and the remains of the abbey along with numerous outbuildings can still be seen, including the cloister, refectory, kitchens, dormitories, and brewing house.

The church, although in ruins, is an outstanding example of Cistercian architecture, with imposing vaulting, arches and rose windows. It was sad for the girls to see the church in such a state - especially the rose windows. It is rare to see such craftsmanship and artistry and it should have been protected and preserved earlier.

All in all we will definitely return in the Spring or Summer. The abbey hosts an annual choir festival "Nuit Des Choeurs" in which a number of choirs sing a variety of music - classical through to gospel, jazz and pop arrangements - from different parts of the grounds over successive nights culminating in a firework display and centre stage concert.

Who Will Kate Marry When She Grows Up?

At dinner last week we discussed where we wanted to go next on vacation. Both girls mentioned London. Kate asked if we would meet the Queen of England and have tea. Kate said that she is going to marry a King when she grows up (perhaps Prince William or Prince Harry?). No. Kate said she is going to marry her Daddy.

The Princess and the Pea: No Beading in Bed

Rich and I enjoyed a nice quiet morning sleeping in today for Armistice Day. The girls were very quiet and were playing nicely in their room. An ideal morning - very rare. What was up?

Elisabeth and Kate had snuck into the playroom and taken the beading kit into their room. When Kate finished beading a necklace, she ran down the hall to our room to ask Rich to tie a knot in her necklace and ran back. When he walked into the girls' room he noticed the whole bucket of beads from a beading kit dumped on Elisabeth's bed - in the sheets, pillows, blankets - everywhere. We cleaned up the beads together. Let's hope they sleep through the night!

November 11, 2009: Armistice Day, Atomium and Mini-Europe

In Belgium and France they celebrate Armistice Day on November 11th to commemorate the end of WWI. World War I was formally ended at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month of 1918 with the German signing of the Armistice. Officially it is a vacation day, businesses and schools are closed. Unofficially, Rich had to work in the office today. Rich took the girls on a bike ride this morning to their favorite pastry shop on Chausee de Wavre. When they returned we dropped him off at the Hermann-Debroux metro stop.

The Atomium

Elisabeth, Kate and I drove North of Brussels to Heysel to see The Atomium and Mini-Europe. It was our first big outing of just the Snyder girls. We arrived around 10:30am and found a terrific free parking space on the street. An impressive walk up a green lawn to the Atomium and incredible view of the city of Brussels. The Atomium was built for the World Fair in Brussels (Expo 1958) and is a very unique creation in the history of architecture. It symbolizes an iron crystal, magnified 165 billion times, referring to the power of nuclear energy in full development at that time and which was intended for peaceful use. We ate lunch in the cafe in one of the crystals. It felt like we were in space during lunch and while riding the escalators. Riding the escalator down we noticed a children's exhibit of sleeping "pods" - Elisabeth is anxious to have an overnight!

Mini-Europe

The girls were excited to walk over to Mini-Europe from the Atomium (at the Atomium the girls noticed a carousel out one of the windows - they love carousels). They were real troopers and didn't ask to be carried or shoulder rides. First, we rode the carousel. Second, we entered Mini-Europe. They noticed immediately the cities they had visited: The Grand Plaza in Brussels, the canals in Ghent and Brugges, the Eiffel Tower in Paris, etc.

Mini-Europe allows guests to learn more about the European Union (EU): to find out what these different people and countries have in common and what makes each one special (the models are built down to the finest detail to a scale of 1:25). I think the girls were very intrigued by London. Perhaps our next destination over Thanskgiving weekend. However, I enjoyed the models of the Northern European countries: Norway, Sweden, Finland, Latvia, Estonia, Lithuania, etc. Not sure how we will fit it all before August - a Baltic cruise next summer looks appealing.

Rain, Rain Go Away Elisabeth and Kate Want to Play

While driving to Brugges last Saturday it started to rain. It began as a light rain. Then about thirty minutes into our drive we experienced a downpour. The rain did not let up. We pulled into Brugges and contemplated changing our plans. But, where would we go? We checked "nearby attractions" on the GPS and the only indoor option was to visit the Boudewign Seapark Aquarium (and to spend the whole afternoon indoors). We put on our rain boots, rain pants, raincoats and opened our umbrellas: we decided to brave the rain.

We didn't get far. We exited the parking garage at Koning Albert I Laan to a torrential downpour. Luckily, it was time for lunch. We snuck into a fabulous Belgian restaurant across the square for a two hour lunch and stayed warm and toasty. Elisabeth ordered tomato soup, Kate ordered spaghetti, I ordered the fish soup and Rich ordered the beef stew. Delicious! The girls especially enjoyed the rye bread! Two baskets!

The Belfry

After lunch we walked along Steenstr to the Grand Plaza. We climbed the Belfry which dominates the city's main square, the Market. A narrow, steep staircase of 366 steps leads to the top of the 83-meter-high building. There was no charge for children under three, but Kate climbed all 366 steps herself, up and down! We listened to a carillon concert while climbing and watched the carilloneur play the carillon on the hand keyboard (although Elisabeth complained that it was too loud).

Belgian Chocolates and a Carriage Ride

Fortunately for us it stopped raining when we left the Belfry. The square surrounding the Belfry is ringed with Gothic and ne0-gothic buildings. Elisabeth's favorite was the pink building, Kate's the yellow (not surprising to us!). Several small shops in Brugges make their own chocolate. While Elisabeth, Kate and I waited in line for the carriage ride, Rich walked to Dumon, one of the best chocolate stores and factories in Brugges. Fortunately, an American in line in front of us told Rich where it was located just off the Grand Plaza. Rich returned just in time for us to savor some chocolates during our 35 minute carriage ride through historic Brugges. Delicious! After the carriage ride Elisabeth said that she wants to have a carriage and drive it when she grows up!

Begijnhof

The carriage ride took us through historic Brugges. We stopped for 10 minutes at the Begijnhof to give the horse some water and oats. We strolled around the Begijnhof, one of the most picturesque squares in Brugges. The Begijnhof was originally a haven for women whose husband's died in the Crusades. The widows pledged obedience to God and spent their time praying and making lace for a living. Today, Begijnhof is home to the Benedictine nuns.

The Church of Our Lady: Michelangelo's Madonna and Child

After the carriage ride we walked to The Church of Our Lady to see Michelangelo's Madonna and Child, his only sculpture outside of Italy. Upon entering the Church Elisabeth was in awe of the sculpture. She just wanted to sit and look at it. She asked questions about the other sculptures, but the Madonna and Child captured her attention most (although I wonder if she was just tired from walking all day?).

Canal Ride

We exited the Church of Our Lady around 4:00pm. We had just enough time for a quick boat ride on the canal before dinner. Brugges is often called the "Venice of the North" and its canals are impressive and beautiful. Taking the boat tour provided one of the best ways to see Brugges and understand it (especially with two young children in tow!).

Quicko's (= McDonald's)

The girls were exhausted, as were we. So we walked back to the Grand Plaza and found a Quicko's. A quick 30 minute meal. We enjoyed chicken nuggets, fries, hamburgers and coca-cola (the girls had milk) while looking out over the Grand Plaza. Just what we needed before walking back to the parking garage and driving home to Brussels.

All in all a great decision to brave the rain: we enjoyed a fabulous lunch at a gourmet restaurant and had a terrific afternoon discovering Brugges with the girls. Nice for us that the blue sky appeared after the Belfry! We fell in love with Brugges. There was so much to see that we will have to return to visit the Chocolate Museum, the Groeninge Museum, the Gruuthuse Museum, the St. Janshospitaal, the windmills and the Memling Museum. We found ourselves fascinated with Brugges, the people, the history and the art.

H1N1 In Brussels

We've been on "fall break" for two weeks in Brussels. On the last day of Kate's school, I received a memo stating that H1N1 was going through her class. Just what we needed. A stomach virus is also going around. The good news is that after two weeks of being sick (and out of school!) we are finally healthy (although exhausted!). We are heading to Brugges today. Will report back on our travels.